Ripimo Shar | 1952 N Face

A UK expedition to Ripimo Shar in 1952 via N Face, led by Eric Shipton. Summit reached on 29th May 1952. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2997
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID RIPI52101
Peak ID RIPI
Year 1952
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Eric Shipton
Sponsor British Expedition to Cho Oyu
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach From Menlung La
Basecamp Date 1952-05-28
Summit Date 1952-05-29
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 1
Total Days 2
Termination Date 1952-05-30
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6647
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Palung (PLNG-521-01); attempted Cho Oyu (CHOY-521-01), Parchamo (PARC-521-01); recon Changtse (CTSE-521-01)
Campsites BC.C1(28/05,6000m),Smt(29/05)
Route Notes Upon reviewing map provided by Dennis P. Davis, it appears that this expedition and the 1955 Gregory expedition climbed an unnamed peak of 6705m south of Menlung La, not the true Pangbuk Ri which is much further north of Menlung La and Kangkuru (6320m). Letter from Ray Colledge to Salisbury - Mar 1, 2004 I agree with your assessment absolutely. We certainly did not climb Pangbuk Ri north of Kangkuru. The fact that "our" peak is now nameless does not bother me. It remains in my memory and photographs as an excellent climb, especially after the failure on Cho Oyu. Many thanks for the interesting maps. Letter from Ray Colledge to Salisbury - Feb 8, 2004 Thank you for your letter of Feb 2. First I cannot give you any dates of birth of members. After 5 years of war I learned to judge a man by his attitude, not his age, as did my comrades. We retreated from Cho Oyu largely because we had lost all our ice pitons. This was May 10. On May 22 we moved to 20,000 feet, for physiological and oxygen tests by Dr. Griffith Pugh. These continued until May 26. Every day I completed my diary and so knew May 26 was my birthday which was now 30 years of age. Tom Bourdillon and I decided to have a go at Pangbuk, a name which of course as unknown to us. Left camp at 7 am, each man carrying 35 lbs including a tent. No Sherpas. Crossed plateau to Tibetan side and descended very steep ice slope to the glacier to start up north side of Pangbuk. At some stage I took a photo of the north face before descent to glacier. At 19,700 feet we found a small terrace beneath an ice cliff and there in continuous snowfall, spent the night. That was May 28. Now on May 29, we left tent at 6 am. Route was steeply up and diagonally left to avoid seracs, climbing frozen snow. Evidently it was cold as I recorded spending an hour watching Tom rubbing his feet to restore his circulation, and also I have a photo of this. Tom recovered and after some interesting climbing we summited at 11 am on May 29. The descent to our tent took only 1-1/4 hours. At this time I was 30 years + 3 days. My home town was Coventry in Warwickshire. I cannot help regards to Tom or anyone else. Tom was killed on the Jagihorn in 1956 climbing with Dick Viney. We failed to record the height of Pangbuk, and I still do not know the true height. Regards, Ray Colledge
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route True
Primary Member True
Primary Reference True
Primary ID CHOY52101
Checksum 2437644
Year 1952
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Eric Earle Shipton M 1907 UK Leader London, England - Details Other expeditions
Thomas Duncan (Tom) Bourdillon M 1924 UK Climber Aylesbury, Buckingham, England - Details Other expeditions
Raymond Leslie Burrows (Ray) Colledge M 1922 UK Climber Coventry, Warwick, England - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.