Ratna Chuli | 1996 W Ridge via W Smt
A Japan expedition to Ratna Chuli in 1996 via W Ridge via W Smt, led by Mitsunori Watanabe. Summit reached on 14th October 1996. 17 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2075 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | RATC96301 |
| Peak ID | RATC |
| Year | 1996 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Ridge via W Smt |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Mitsunori Watanabe |
| Sponsor | Nepal Police-Shinshu University Joint Himalaya Exp 1996 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st-3rd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Nepal |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1996-09-20 |
| Summit Date | 1996-10-14 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 24 |
| Total Days | 32 |
| Termination Date | 1996-10-22 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7035 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 2250 |
| Total Members | 12 |
| Summit Members | 11 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 5 |
| Summit Hired | 5 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(20/09,5200m),ABC(30/09,5500m),C1(01/10,6000m),C2(08/10,6550m),Smt(14,16,18/10) |
| Route Notes | BC at east of Phu village (side of glacier) ABC at side of glacier C1 on plateau west of West Ridge C2 on West Ridge just east of West Peak. From C2 to main summit 1500 meters: very long avilable for another camp before summit. Whole route not technically difficult, but fixed rope from ABC to C1; C1 to C2 and C2 to top 900m because Japanese members 20 yrs to 54 yrs old and Nepalese members also wanted rope fixed. People of Phugaon very difficult: work only 1-2 hrs/day, very uncooperative (Tibetans). C2 establishment dealyed by heavy snowfall. High altitude porters: Durga Bahadur Tamang Tul Bahadur Tamang Nooru (Nuru) Sherpa (Sirdar) Phul Bahadur Rai Dambar Bahadur Gurung |
| Accidents | Doctor broke ankle on return march; sick kitchen boy |
| Achievement | 1st ascent in 1st attempt |
| Agency | Cosmo Treks/Nepal Police |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2453897 |
| Year | 1996 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | w ridge via w smt |
Members
17 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Phul Bahadur Rai | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Jubacheme, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dambar Bahadur Gurung | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Mukli, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Yasuhiro Hanatani | M | 1976 | Japan | Climber | Oka, Nagano, Japan | Education student | Details Other expeditions |
| Tetsuo Kaneko | M | 1945 | Japan | Climber | Neyagawa, Osaka, Japan | Bridge engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigetomo Kobayashi | M | 1977 | Japan | Climber | Sakaikawa, Yamana-shi, Japan | Student of culture | Details Other expeditions |
| Masao Nomura | M | 1941 | Japan | General Leader | Nakamura, Nagano, Japan | Electronics shop owner | Details Other expeditions |
| Katsuhiko Sawada | M | 1958 | Japan | Climber | Yono, Saitama, Japan | Staff member of medical supplies manufacturing company | Details Other expeditions |
| Osamu Tanabe | M | 1961 | Japan | Climbing Leader | Nagoya, Aichi, Japan | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Kenichi Uchida | M | 1967 | Japan | Climber | Chigasaki, Kanagawa, Japan | Forester | Details Other expeditions |
| Mitsunori Watanabe | M | 1950 | Japan | Leader | Aizu-Wakamatsu, Fukushima, Japan | Staff member of forest development corporation | Details Other expeditions |
| Santa Bahadur Ale | M | 1966 | Nepal | Climber | Chhanchhandi, Syangja, Gandaki Zone | Police officer at police academy | Details Other expeditions |
| Gita Bahadur Joshi | M | 1958 | Nepal | Climber | Taluwa, Okhaldhunga | Police officer at police academy | Details Other expeditions |
| Gupta Bahadur Rana | M | 1945 | Nepal | Climber | Bhairawa, Rupandehi, Lumbini Zone | Senior police officer at police academy | Details Other expeditions |
| Ram Kaji Sivakoti | M | - | Nepal | Climber | Sunkhani, Dolakha | Police officer at police acadamy | Details Other expeditions |
| Tul Bahadur Tamang | M | 1966 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Deusa, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Durge Bahadur Tamang | M | 1961 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Deusa, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nuru Sherpa | M | 1955 | Nepal | Sirdar | Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| RATC96301 | JAC | Watanabe, Mitsunori | Nepal Police-Shinshu University Joint Himalayan Expedition 1996 | - | 92:A36-38 (1997) | - |
| RATC96301 | HJ | Watanabe, Mitsunori | The First Ascent of Ratna Chuli | - | 54:187-194 (1998) | - |
| RATC96301 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 71:291 (1997) | - |
| RATC96301 | HIGH | - | - | - | 175:89 (Jun 1997) | - |
| RATC96301 | JAC | Watanabe, Mitsunori | Nepal Police-Shinshu University Joint Himalayan Expedition 1996 | - | 92:59-66 (1997) | - |
| RATC96301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199729101/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Ratnachuli-First-Ascent | - | - | - |
| RATC96301 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/54/19/expeditions-and-notes-54/ | - | - | - |