Ratna Chuli | 2013 W Smt-W Ridge

A France expedition to Ratna Chuli in 2013 via W Smt-W Ridge, led by Serge Bazin. Summit reached on 10th October 2013. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8314
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID RATC13301
Peak ID RATC
Year 2013
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Smt-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Serge Bazin
Sponsor French Ratna Chuli Expedition 2013
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Belgium, Switzerland
Approach Koto->Phu
Basecamp Date 2013-09-28
Summit Date 2013-10-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 12
Total Days 16
Termination Date 2013-10-14
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6804m due to weather conditions and lack of time
High Point (m) 6804
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 300
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/09,5200m),ABC(30/09,5600m),C1(01/10,6000m),C2(09/10,6600m),xxx(10/10,6804m)
Route Notes On the 2nd October, the team attempted to go to C2. On the 8th October, the entire team slept at C1. On the 9th October, the entire team slept at C2. On the 10 October, the entire team reached the Ratna fore-summit (6804m on the Finnish map). Then Bazin, with both Sherpas and Pellegrin went further on the route, equipping the descent to the col lying between both summits (Ratna fore-summit and Ratna Chuli, 6412m on the Finnish map) with 100m of fixed rope, then let 200m of rope at the col for the day after and made the track for the summit until 6804m before turning down. In his initial plans, Bazin thought he would reach summit on 11 or 12th October, but in the night of 10th to the 11th of October, the weather turned bad, so that on the 11th, the entire team could only escape from the storm with 80 km/h winds (intensified with the Venturi effect, C2 lying on a col), taking time to take away all the gear put on the mountain (tents, fixed ropes - except the 100m between fore-summit and 6412m col) whilst climbing down. The same day all the team was safely back to the base camp. The same day the expedition was over: there was not enough time left and even with a return of good weather for the 12th October, the conditions wouldn't have been safe enough for a summit bid, with a lots of wind slabs. Sherpas: Pemba Nuru Sherpa, 2037/8/12, Khumjung-3, Solukhumbu Dachhiri Sherpa, 2024/3/7, Khumjung-1, Solukhumbu Fixed rope: Bazin and the Sherpas put 300m of fixed ropes on the route: 200m below C2 for steep sections of ice (60 degrees), 100m below the fore-summit to go down to the 6412m col. The less steeper sections below (35-degree slopes) and above (40-degree slopes) C1 were not equipped as the snow conditions were very good.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460119
Year 2013
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w smt-w ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Serge Bernard Bazin M 1963 France Leader Passy, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean Michel Bellocq M 1949 France Climber Saint-Orens-de-Gameville, Haute-Garonne, France Retired medical analyst Details Other expeditions
Alain Eric Dondainas M 1966 France Climber Bron, Rhone, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Emilie Leonard F 1977 Switzerland Climber Bonne, Haute-Savoie, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Pierre-Olivier Louis Pellegrin M 1959 France Climber Bonne, Haute-Savoie, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Jean-Pierre Rouvanet M 1948 France Climber Lacroix Falgarde, Haute-Garonne, France Retired accountant Details Other expeditions
Vincent Eric Devalkeneer M 1967 Belgium Climber Brussels, Belgium Owner of pubs Details Other expeditions
Pemba Nuru Sherpa M 1980 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Da Chhiri (Datsheri) Sherpa M 1967 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.