Rani Peak | 1970 SE side-S Ridge

A Netherlands expedition to Rani Peak in 1970 via SE side-S Ridge, led by J. F. Saltet, J. A. Noordyk. Summit reached on 5th May 1970. 22 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2477
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID RANI70101
Peak ID RANI
Year 1970
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE side-S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Netherlands
Leaders J. F. Saltet, J. A. Noordyk
Sponsor 1970 Netherlands Himalaya Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st-4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 1970-05-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6693
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 17
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 5
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Permit for Peak 29 (PK29-701-01)
Campsites BC(4000m),C1(4900m),C2(5600m),C3(6000m),C4(6250m),Smt(05-08/05)
Route Notes Korthals-Altes & Wouters - 19 May 70 Technically not difficult climb. Everything very smoothly up to C4 6270m. Above to summit snow ridge and small ice wall and find ice field to summit; had to think while climbing there, while it was walking up to C4. 4 hours to summit for 1st party with bad weather and making route to 1-1/2 hrs for last party in fine weather and route already made. Called Liberation Peak because 25 years ago on May 5 Holland liberated by USA and Canadian forces. All except Wouters leave KTM 20th and in Netherlands Sat except ??. Noordyk - 4 May 70 All non-climbers here in KTM. After last fall's Peak 29 expedition, potato crop failed and villagers had to go 10 days at least to Aurughat and back to get food. [Villagers angry and blamed climbers.] Japanese able to climb because responsible of Samans in Tibet with yaks. So applied for NE Peak of Himalchuli 6550m (attempted by 1959 Japanese expedition unsuccessfully). April received permit. 4000-4600m base and C1 established on 25th having had plenty of time for acclimatization. Approach from southeast. 26th would try make C2 at 5500m and asked trekkers for another tent for a C3 at 6000m. Trekkers reached Gorkha airport yesterday and arrived KTM today. All except journalist Hendrik Hovinga leave Friday. Climbers return KTM 19 May via Gorkha. Noordyk - 27 March 70 Noordyk and 15 arrive today and Wouters already here. Leave Tuesday am if expedition baggage arrives ex-NDH. 2 weeks to base camp about 5000m in upper Buri Gandaki above Sama village. Has Tibetan message for villagers in Sama from lama in Netherlands. Try to find way up. Think will follow partly same route as Japanese towards Peak 29. 1st to identify whether Dakura exists and is perhaps same as Peak 29; probably whole range acclimatizing in Peak 29 and one of these is Dakura about same altitude as Peak 29. 6-8 really good climbers. De Graeff and Noordyk were not so experienced at high altitudes. Total 8 high climbers. No oxygen; have equipment for 4 camps Summit end April, early May. 1970 Netherlands Expedition Sponsor: Royal Netherland Alpine Amb + Neth-Nepal Friendship Assoc Firm: private members March-May 1970 Route: Arughat-Runiket-Barchan-Samagaon (if res permitted)-Dakara. Nima Dorje = sirdar and member Leader: 1) Johannes Adolf Noordyk born 16 March, 1918 in Rio Pediatric surgeon, medicine faculty Rotterdam Waagdam 30, Warmand
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444212
Year 1970
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se side-s ridge

Members

22 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Johannes Adolf Noordijk M 1918 Netherlands Trekking Leader Warmond, Netherlands Pediatric surgeon, medical faculty, Rotterdam Details Other expeditions
Ole Ernst Hendrik (Baron) Bentinck M 1914 Netherlands Trekker Amsterdam, Netherlands Banker Details Other expeditions
Jan Albertus Eilard Van der Feen M 1924 Netherlands Trekker Goes, Zeeland, Netherlands Practitioner of medicine Details Other expeditions
Jacob De Graeff M 1921 Netherlands Trekker Oegstgeest, Netherlands Professor of internal medicine, University of Leyden Details Other expeditions
Johanna Hermanna Arendina Bijl De Vroe De Graeff F 1926 Netherlands Trekker Oegstgeest, Netherlands Housewife Details Other expeditions
Jan Jacob De Graeff M 1949 Netherlands Trekker Wageningen, Netherlands Student of agriculture, Landboun Hogeschool Details Other expeditions
Pieter Andries De Graeff M 1950 Netherlands Trekker Oegstgeest, Netherlands Student of medicine at Gronanger Details Other expeditions
Hendrik Willem Van Harrevald M 1939 Netherlands Climber Hague, Netherlands Attorney Details Other expeditions
Eduard Paul Arthur Hopster M 1940 Netherlands Climber Amsterdam, Netherlands Psychologist Details Other expeditions
Hendrik (Henk) Hovinga M 1931 Netherlands Trekker Ankeveen, Netherlands Journalist with television Details Other expeditions
Christian Korthals-Altes M 1937 Netherlands Climber Hinksey Hill, Oxford, England Scientist at Oxford University Details Other expeditions
Johannes Osinga M 1943 Netherlands Climber Eindhoven, Netherlands Technological assistant in Phillips Labs, Eindhoven Details Other expeditions
Jean Francois Saltet M 1920 Netherlands Leader Reeuwinjk, Netherlands Pathologist, municipal hospital, Rotterdam Details Other expeditions
Kasper Frederik De Stoppelaar M 1947 Netherlands Trekker Leiden, Netherlands Biology student at Leyden University Details Other expeditions
Herman Tollenaar M 1947 Netherlands Climber Delft, Netherlands Technology student at Delft Technical High School Details Other expeditions
Conrad Jan Van Tooren M 1936 Netherlands Climber Hague, Netherlands Official in Ministry of Foreign Affairs Details Other expeditions
Johannes Rogier Wouters M 1944 Netherlands Climber Leiden, Netherlands Medical assistant Details Other expeditions
Nima Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Lhakpa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
RANI70101 HJ Noordyk, J. A. & Saltet, J. F. Ascent of Pk 6,550 Metres - 30:101-105 (1970) -
RANI70101 AAJ Noordijk, J. A. - - 45:441 (1971) -
RANI70101 MM - - - 10:6 (Jul 1970) -
RANI70101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Himalchuli - 47:44-45 (Jan 1976) -
RANI70101 - Saltet, J. F. Nepal Heb je Japal Kan je Krijgen By author - -
RANI70101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197144100/Asia-Nepal-Lidanda-Peak-on-the-Northeast-Ridge-of-Himalchuli - - -
RANI70101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/30/4/ascent-of-pk-6550-metres/ - - -