Rani Peak | 1970 SE side-S Ridge
A Netherlands expedition to Rani Peak in 1970 via SE side-S Ridge, led by J. F. Saltet, J. A. Noordyk. Summit reached on 5th May 1970. 22 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2477 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | RANI70101 |
| Peak ID | RANI |
| Year | 1970 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE side-S Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Netherlands |
| Leaders | J. F. Saltet, J. A. Noordyk |
| Sponsor | 1970 Netherlands Himalaya Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st-4th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | - |
| Summit Date | 1970-05-05 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 0 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6693 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 17 |
| Summit Members | 7 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 6 |
| Summit Hired | 5 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Permit for Peak 29 (PK29-701-01) |
| Campsites | BC(4000m),C1(4900m),C2(5600m),C3(6000m),C4(6250m),Smt(05-08/05) |
| Route Notes | Korthals-Altes & Wouters - 19 May 70 Technically not difficult climb. Everything very smoothly up to C4 6270m. Above to summit snow ridge and small ice wall and find ice field to summit; had to think while climbing there, while it was walking up to C4. 4 hours to summit for 1st party with bad weather and making route to 1-1/2 hrs for last party in fine weather and route already made. Called Liberation Peak because 25 years ago on May 5 Holland liberated by USA and Canadian forces. All except Wouters leave KTM 20th and in Netherlands Sat except ??. Noordyk - 4 May 70 All non-climbers here in KTM. After last fall's Peak 29 expedition, potato crop failed and villagers had to go 10 days at least to Aurughat and back to get food. [Villagers angry and blamed climbers.] Japanese able to climb because responsible of Samans in Tibet with yaks. So applied for NE Peak of Himalchuli 6550m (attempted by 1959 Japanese expedition unsuccessfully). April received permit. 4000-4600m base and C1 established on 25th having had plenty of time for acclimatization. Approach from southeast. 26th would try make C2 at 5500m and asked trekkers for another tent for a C3 at 6000m. Trekkers reached Gorkha airport yesterday and arrived KTM today. All except journalist Hendrik Hovinga leave Friday. Climbers return KTM 19 May via Gorkha. Noordyk - 27 March 70 Noordyk and 15 arrive today and Wouters already here. Leave Tuesday am if expedition baggage arrives ex-NDH. 2 weeks to base camp about 5000m in upper Buri Gandaki above Sama village. Has Tibetan message for villagers in Sama from lama in Netherlands. Try to find way up. Think will follow partly same route as Japanese towards Peak 29. 1st to identify whether Dakura exists and is perhaps same as Peak 29; probably whole range acclimatizing in Peak 29 and one of these is Dakura about same altitude as Peak 29. 6-8 really good climbers. De Graeff and Noordyk were not so experienced at high altitudes. Total 8 high climbers. No oxygen; have equipment for 4 camps Summit end April, early May. 1970 Netherlands Expedition Sponsor: Royal Netherland Alpine Amb + Neth-Nepal Friendship Assoc Firm: private members March-May 1970 Route: Arughat-Runiket-Barchan-Samagaon (if res permitted)-Dakara. Nima Dorje = sirdar and member Leader: 1) Johannes Adolf Noordyk born 16 March, 1918 in Rio Pediatric surgeon, medicine faculty Rotterdam Waagdam 30, Warmand |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2444212 |
| Year | 1970 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se side-s ridge |
Members
22 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Johannes Adolf Noordijk | M | 1918 | Netherlands | Trekking Leader | Warmond, Netherlands | Pediatric surgeon, medical faculty, Rotterdam | Details Other expeditions |
| Ole Ernst Hendrik (Baron) Bentinck | M | 1914 | Netherlands | Trekker | Amsterdam, Netherlands | Banker | Details Other expeditions |
| Jan Albertus Eilard Van der Feen | M | 1924 | Netherlands | Trekker | Goes, Zeeland, Netherlands | Practitioner of medicine | Details Other expeditions |
| Jacob De Graeff | M | 1921 | Netherlands | Trekker | Oegstgeest, Netherlands | Professor of internal medicine, University of Leyden | Details Other expeditions |
| Johanna Hermanna Arendina Bijl De Vroe De Graeff | F | 1926 | Netherlands | Trekker | Oegstgeest, Netherlands | Housewife | Details Other expeditions |
| Jan Jacob De Graeff | M | 1949 | Netherlands | Trekker | Wageningen, Netherlands | Student of agriculture, Landboun Hogeschool | Details Other expeditions |
| Pieter Andries De Graeff | M | 1950 | Netherlands | Trekker | Oegstgeest, Netherlands | Student of medicine at Gronanger | Details Other expeditions |
| Hendrik Willem Van Harrevald | M | 1939 | Netherlands | Climber | Hague, Netherlands | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Eduard Paul Arthur Hopster | M | 1940 | Netherlands | Climber | Amsterdam, Netherlands | Psychologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Hendrik (Henk) Hovinga | M | 1931 | Netherlands | Trekker | Ankeveen, Netherlands | Journalist with television | Details Other expeditions |
| Christian Korthals-Altes | M | 1937 | Netherlands | Climber | Hinksey Hill, Oxford, England | Scientist at Oxford University | Details Other expeditions |
| Johannes Osinga | M | 1943 | Netherlands | Climber | Eindhoven, Netherlands | Technological assistant in Phillips Labs, Eindhoven | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Francois Saltet | M | 1920 | Netherlands | Leader | Reeuwinjk, Netherlands | Pathologist, municipal hospital, Rotterdam | Details Other expeditions |
| Kasper Frederik De Stoppelaar | M | 1947 | Netherlands | Trekker | Leiden, Netherlands | Biology student at Leyden University | Details Other expeditions |
| Herman Tollenaar | M | 1947 | Netherlands | Climber | Delft, Netherlands | Technology student at Delft Technical High School | Details Other expeditions |
| Conrad Jan Van Tooren | M | 1936 | Netherlands | Climber | Hague, Netherlands | Official in Ministry of Foreign Affairs | Details Other expeditions |
| Johannes Rogier Wouters | M | 1944 | Netherlands | Climber | Leiden, Netherlands | Medical assistant | Details Other expeditions |
| Nima Dorje Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Mingma Tshering Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Phurba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Lhakpa Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Tshering Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| RANI70101 | HJ | Noordyk, J. A. & Saltet, J. F. | Ascent of Pk 6,550 Metres | - | 30:101-105 (1970) | - |
| RANI70101 | AAJ | Noordijk, J. A. | - | - | 45:441 (1971) | - |
| RANI70101 | MM | - | - | - | 10:6 (Jul 1970) | - |
| RANI70101 | MM | Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman | Himalchuli | - | 47:44-45 (Jan 1976) | - |
| RANI70101 | - | Saltet, J. F. | Nepal Heb je Japal Kan je Krijgen | By author | - | - |
| RANI70101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197144100/Asia-Nepal-Lidanda-Peak-on-the-Northeast-Ridge-of-Himalchuli | - | - | - |
| RANI70101 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/30/4/ascent-of-pk-6550-metres/ | - | - | - |