Raksha Urai | 1997 Raksha Urai III - NE side (to 5200m)

A Austria expedition to Raksha Urai in 1997 via Raksha Urai III - NE side (to 5200m), led by Guenther Mussnig. Summit reached on 6th October 1997. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2388
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID RAKS97301
Peak ID RAKS
Year 1997
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Raksha Urai III - NE side (to 5200m)
Route 2 Raksha Urai IV - SE side (to depot at 5100m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Guenther Mussnig
Sponsor Austrian Raksha Urai Expedition 1997
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach From Chainpur along Seti river->Saipal (yak huts no people)
Basecamp Date 1997-10-01
Summit Date 1997-10-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 5
Total Days 12
Termination Date 1997-10-13
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned due to heavy snowfall, avalanche danger and lack of time
High Point (m) 5100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/10,4100m),ABC(02/10,5000m),Depot(06/10,5100m),xxx(06/10,5100m)
Route Notes BC 2 hours west of Saipal ABC at snowslope of East Face of Raksha Urai III below East Ridge Depot below icefall below SE Face of Raksha Urai (not slept in). Raksha Urai has 6 summits, southern west summit is called Dhulagari 6632m. Deep gorge between Dahachaur and Goranphu, one day's trek south of Saipal village. To go to Raksha Urai or Dhulagari, is best to go via valley directly from Goranphu. 4 of six peaks are entirely rocky, but Raksha III and IV are snow domes with ice face or ice ridge - rock not stable. Raksha IV is exceedingly steep - depot reached on 6th and gear left this but slept in ABC. Now snowfell 3 days and 3 nights but then weather cleared and 10th up from BC to ABC for attempt to climb but ABC almost completely destroyed, but after rebuilding it slept there. 11th 4-member summit attack team went up but all slopes unstable snow and everywhere avalanches; 2 reached depot and cleared it and did clean mountain. On 3rd meanwhile 4 from ABC onto snow ridge to icefalls and stopped here; trying to get onto snow routes to same peak, Raksha Urai IV. Another approach route would be from Simikot, shorter and at higher elevation, but not sure there is a pass to give access to Raksha Urai. Most days via route used rained in afternoon. Possible to climb and from Salimor Khola, south of Nampa, to west side of Raksha Urai peaks. Police checkpost established at Dhulli said this team 1st foreigners to reach the post ever. High points reached: to depot at 5100m on Raksha Urai IV: 5th Oct - G. Mussnig, W. Mussnig, Simmler and Wieser 11th Oct - U. Lackna and Pokorny to 5200m on Raksha Urai III: 3rd Oct - M. Lackner, Pokorny, Schiechl, Zoehrer Only these members listed above went above ABC.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st attempt on massif
Agency Himalayan Sherpa Nepal
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454255
Year 1997
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) raksha urai iii - ne side (to 5200m)

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hubert Martin Lackner M 1974 Austria Dep Leader (admin) Heiligenblut, Carinthia, Austria Regional manager for EU (rural programs) Details Other expeditions
Uwe Lackner M 1974 Austria Climber Leoben, Styria, Austria Sports student Details Other expeditions
Tanja Lube F 1967 Austria BC Manager Leoben, Styria, Austria Does research on & tests various materials Details Other expeditions
Guenter Mussnig M 1964 Austria Leader Muehldorf, Carinthia, Austria National park official Details Other expeditions
Werner Mussnig M 1965 Austria Climber Klagenfurt, Carinthia, Austria University teacher of accounting Details Other expeditions
Peter Paul Ploessnig M 1961 Austria Climber Moertschach, Carinthia, Austria Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Dieter Pokorny M 1973 Austria Climber Winzendorf, Lower Austria, Austria Technical student Details Other expeditions
Gerhard Schaar M 1974 Austria Member Malta, Carinthia, Austria Sports student Details Other expeditions
Georg Andrae Schiechl M 1964 Austria Climbing Leader Heiligenblut, Carinthia, Austria Alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Martin Simmler M 1974 Austria Climber Heiligenblut, Carinthia, Austria Ecology student Details Other expeditions
Thomas Suntinger M 1968 Austria Climber Grosskirchheim, Carinthia, Austria National park official Details Other expeditions
Horst Wieser M 1974 Austria Climber Ferlach, Carinthia, Austria Border policemen Details Other expeditions
Martina Wittels F 1959 Austria Exp Doctor Klagenfurt, Carinthia, Austria Anesthesist Details Other expeditions
Thomas Zoehrer M 1972 Austria Climber St. Michael, Styria, Austria Trading agent (in window frames) Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
RAKS97301 HJ Mussnig, Guenter & Lackner, Martin Expedition to the Forgotten Mountain - 54:194-200 (1998) -
RAKS97301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 72:301 (1998) -
RAKS97301 HIGH - - - 188:25-26 (Jul 1998) -
RAKS97301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830102/Asia-Nepal-Raksha-Urai-Massif-First-Attempt - - -
RAKS97301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/54/19/expeditions-and-notes-54/ - - -