Raksha Urai | 2003 S Ridge of Pt 6600m

A France expedition to Raksha Urai in 2003 via S Ridge of Pt 6600m, led by Arnaud Clere. Summit reached on 15th October 2003. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4508
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID RAKS03301
Peak ID RAKS
Year 2003
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge of Pt 6600m
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Arnaud Clere
Sponsor Api Himal the Far West of Nepal Expedition to Raksha Urai
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Nepalgunj to Chainpur
Basecamp Date 2003-10-09
Summit Date 2003-10-15
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 6
Total Days 9
Termination Date 2003-10-18
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6609
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/10,4000m),Biv1(13/10,5100m),Biv2(14/10,5800m),Smt(15/10)
Route Notes BC at 4000m at Saipal village which is stone hut only Biv at 5100m foot of East Ridge of point 6600m Biv at 5800m below col at 6142m on N-S Ridge of Raksha Urai. On arrival at Chainpur had to stay 2 days there: for their sirdar and a Sherpa to go down valley to meet Maoists (who would not have let team pass if they had been Americans, British or Japanese and who demanded cash). Left Chainpur 2 Oct and up Seti Khola past Gomphu to "Saipal" BC due East of Raksha Urai. Team split into 2 parties since after delays arriving at BC had only 10 days for climbing. One group east to Korko 6053m (Guais, Hubaud, Bastard do Crisnay, Gamby and sirdar) to see north side of Korko, for which also had climbing permit, and to acclimatize and returned to BC. Meanwhile other members Clere, Coulaud and Faroux to Raksha Tal (lake) west-northwest of BC and then went northwest to see point 6420m of Raksha Urai. All back to BC on 12 Oct. Clere, Coulaud and Faroux wanted to climb point 6420m, but too technical so changed objective to point 6600m north of point 6420m on Raksha Urai's north-south ridge. Clere, Coulaud, Faroux and sirdar Keshab Raj Gurung (Ashe) left BC 13 Oct and bived at 5100m at bottom of East Ridge; 14 Oct to biv at 5800m below col at 6142m. 15 Oct 4:30 am left biv, climbed to col up 45-degree snow slope and turned north on South Ridge of point 6600m. Ridge mostly snow with many small cornices and small loose rocks (which had to be tossed) and one short, steep last part which is broader than rocky section and then several false summits, 200-300m total length. On top at 12:00 noon (all 3 French and Gurung) and stayed 30 minutes, left Nepal and Tibetan flags and prayer flags. Then down ascent route; five hundred meters before col Faroux and Gurung were in lead: those behind couldn't see them and when they reached a section of ridge where could see whole ridge 400m down onto glacier, one body spotted, but couldn't get to it because slope too steep and were tired. Saw two tracks on snow. Returned to 5800m biv 5:00 pm and slept there. 16 Oct returned to BC at 3:00-4:00 pm. Climb finished. The other party meanwhile had gone to Chaurapani point 5581m via its north ridge to 200m below top. Pt 6420m = Raksha Urai II by this expedition's designation. Pt 6600m, north of II = Raksha Urai III Raksha Urai I is peak south of II Dhaulagari is next peak south of I.
Accidents Nothing serious except fatal fall in which Faroux and sirdar died
Achievement 1st ascent of Raksha Urai III summit
Agency Churen Himal Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456461
Year 2003
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge of pt 6600m

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sylvie Bastard do Crisnay F 1956 France Climber Autrans, Isere, France Anesthetist Details Other expeditions
Arnaud Clere M 1971 France Leader Saint-Nizier, Saone-et-Loire, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Catherine Coulaud F 1973 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Lab technician Details Other expeditions
Gael Faroux M 1972 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Computer data analyst Details Other expeditions
Nicolas Gamby M 1977 France Climber Le Sappey-en-Chartreuse, Isere, France City water management staff member Details Other expeditions
Francoise Guais M 1956 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Not working Details Other expeditions
Francois Hubaud F 1956 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Television editor Details Other expeditions
Keshab Raj (Ashe) Gurung M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
RAKS03301 HIGH - - - 256:6 (Mar 2004) -
RAKS03301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 78:388-389 (2004) -
RAKS03301 HIGH - - - 265:63-64 (Dec 2004) -
RAKS03301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200438803/Asia-Nepal-Far-West-Asia-Nepal-Raksha-Urai-First-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -