Putha Hiunchuli | 1982 S Ridge-S Face

A Netherlands expedition to Putha Hiunchuli in 1982 via S Ridge-S Face, led by Nicolaas Van Lookeren Campagne. Summit reached on 14th October 1982. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2047
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUTH82301
Peak ID PUTH
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge-S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Netherlands
Leaders Nicolaas Van Lookeren Campagne
Sponsor Netherlands Putha Hiunchuli South Route Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 13th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Luxembourg
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-10-01
Summit Date 1982-10-14
Summit Time 1300
Summit Days 13
Total Days 20
Termination Date 1982-10-21
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7246
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/10,4650m),C1(03/10,5300m),C2(05/10,5850m),C3(13/10,6500m),Smt(14/10)
Route Notes Summit 14th Oct: from C3 6300m 4:00 am; on top 1:00 pm and stayed 25 min and returned 5:00 pm. Summiters: 14 Oct: Rinus Lamers Roland Zeyen Ang Temba, 24 18th Oct at 4:00 am left C3 and near top 13:30 hrs and returned to C3 same day. Weather was good. Left BC 21 Oct. Near Summiters: 18 Oct: Miss Fredrick Bloemers Claude Zeyen Claude & Roland Zeyen - 30 Oct 82 C1 - at 5300m to 5350m. C2 - 5850m established 5 Oct. C3 - took time to establish at 6400m with small icefall first which is due to the climb. Others went thru center of it, but Dutch found step towards western side which led to foot of dome. This step of ice which they called "banana" made ascent possible. Then dome required fixing rope and from down a bit and up. C3 established 13th Oct at 6500m after several temp C3's. Found other's fixed rope. Route was S Ridge and some on S Face. 18th Oct 2 "summiters" were just below summit (50 to 100m vertically below) hit by jet stream and unable to go all the way to summit. This expedition's last last day unfortunately and only day of bad storm in morning. 7 Sherpas above BC: 5 did the job and 2 others occasionally climbed. Went very smoothly with no problems, accidents a frostbite. Claude Zeyen - 15 Sept 82 Others arrived 20th Sept.Leave 21 or 22 Sept by road to PKR, walking via Beni and Gurjakhani to Kaphe Khola. BC at 4300-4400m, east or northeast of point 5490m on Japanese Dhaulagiri map. 3 high camps with C3 at 6200m; perhaps cave above this camp which is north of what Germans call the Dome. Route = S Ridge to S Face, basically Japanese 1972 route but taking shortcuts on Japanese devious route and going more direct (Germans in 1978 Autumn and 1979 Autumn also). Arrive BC 2 or 3 Oct. Summit 15th Oct for first summiters. 3 Sherpas above BC and possibly sirdar. All home be back in KTM by 29 Oct. 2 medical oxygen only (not for climbing or sleeping).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448724
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge-s face

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Frederike Bloemers F 1955 Netherlands Climber Hague, Netherlands Attorney Details Other expeditions
Jan Bongenaar M 1944 Netherlands Climber Delft, Netherlands Interpreter and translator Details Other expeditions
Rinus Lamers M 1948 Netherlands Exp Doctor Bethesda, Maryland Physician Details Other expeditions
Nicolaas Van Lookeren Campagne M 1929 Netherlands Leader Wassenaar, Netherlands Manager of Royal Shell Details Other expeditions
Sylvia Van Rietschoten F 1953 Netherlands Climber Amsterdam, Netherlands Attorney Details Other expeditions
Claude Zeyen M 1947 Luxembourg Deputy Leader Tronche, France Physicist at Grenoble Research Centre Details Other expeditions
Roland Zeyen M 1948 Luxembourg Climber Gemonio, Varese, Italy Nuclear physicist Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUTH82301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 57:247 (1983) -
PUTH82301 MM - - - 89:12 (Jan 1983) -
PUTH82301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198324704/Asia-Nepal-Putha-Hiunchuli - - -