Putha Hiunchuli | 1978 S Ridge-S Face
A W Germany expedition to Putha Hiunchuli in 1978 via S Ridge-S Face, led by Guenter Sturm, Fritz Zintl. Summit reached on 8th October 1978. 30 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2162 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | PUTH78301 |
| Peak ID | PUTH |
| Year | 1978 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Ridge-S Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | W Germany |
| Leaders | Guenter Sturm, Fritz Zintl |
| Sponsor | DAV Expedition to Putha Hiunchuli |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 5th-7th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Pokhara->Gurjakani->Budzunge La->Kaphe Khola (BC) |
| Basecamp Date | 1978-09-23 |
| Summit Date | 1978-10-08 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 15 |
| Total Days | 31 |
| Termination Date | 1978-10-24 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7246 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 26 |
| Summit Members | 17 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 5 |
| Summit Hired | 3 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(23/09,4450m),C1(25/09,4900m),C2(27/09,5750m),C3(02/10,6300m),Smt(08,12,19/10) |
| Route Notes | Zintl - 31 Oct 78 6th member on 19th Oct was Schaeuble. 1 other 20 minutes (100m) reached below summit Pfundstein. South Ridge route - 3 camps: C3 at 6300m. Lackner fell down couloir and then into crevasse. Base camp was at 4450m. No other accidents or illness, no frostbite. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 31 Oct 78 Summit of Putha Hiunchuli: 08 Oct (from first group) 7 members + 2 Sherpas (see below) 12 Oct (from first group): left Nepal 20 Oct Gunter Sturm (leader) Max Stueckl Theo Zunterer Ludwig Huber Ang Chepal Sherpa 19 Oct (from 2nd group): left KTM 3rd Nov Udo Zehetleitner Wilhelm Odenthal Wolfgang Lutz Mrs Angelika Zintl Fritz Zintl (leader) Gerhard Schaeuble Thus total of 20 have climbed mountain. All are well and leaving BC for KTM on 24 Oct. Col. Ongdi - 31 Oct 78 Sturm and party stayed behind Vogler's group to make 2nd ascent of Putha Hiunchuli and flew to KTM on same day Vogler's group came from Pokhara. Both groups left Nepal together on 20 Oct. Lackner - 17 Oct 78 Fell 40m into crevasse near C2 about 4-5 days ago. Cuts on face and left side leg and arm at first had not feeling, now feels like needles. Hopes to go home with first group. Also arrived by helicopter today from BC: Heinz Hagg who had altitude problems. Peter Vogler - 17 Oct 78 Vogler and 7 arrive KTM today and rest tomorrow. All well with his group. Ministry's report of summiters on 8 Oct correct. No problems climbing and no accidents, etc - all well. 1 member 2nd group Bernd Lackner of Munich came to KTM by helicopter after fall in crevasse near C2, Vogler heard. As the first group of German climbers who conquered 7246m Putha Hiunchuli in the Nepalese Himalayas on 8th October began arriving here today from the mountains, having walked part of the way from their base camp, two members of the second group of German Alpine Club members, who began climbing the same mountain on 11th October, were evacuated today from base to KTM by helicopter because of injuries and illness. Bernd Lackner, 33 a biochemist from Munich and a bachelor, fell 40m into a crevasse near the second high altitude camp at 5750m on Putha Hiunchuli four or five days ago. He is not quite sure which and suffers from superficial cuts about the face and a sensation in his left arm and leg which he describes as being like needles pricking him. He told Reuters from his hospital bed there this evening that several days ago he had no feeling in these limbs at all, and he believes he is getting better. He hopes to go home to Germany with the first group, who leave here on 20 Oct. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 15 Oct 78 8 Oct climbed by 7 members and 2 Sherpas: Peter Vogler Dieter Holzl Herbert Kaestler Lothar Reiser Franz Neubauer Heinz Kobler Martin Andwander Ang Pasang Sherpa Nawa Temba Sherpa Probably from where they made assault: C3 6360m on 2 Oct. 2nd group reached BC 9 Oct and will start climbing on 11 Oct. Sturm - 11 Sept 78 Leave KTM 12 Sept, 8-10 days to BC via Kaphe Khola South Ridge route of '72 Japanese expeditions Maybe 3 high camps maybe 4 (probably 3) 5 Sherpas above BC, Ang Temba sirdar Summit about 8-10th Oct for 1st group 2nd group will arrive BC a few days before 2nd finishes and will use 1st group's fixed ropes, tents, etc; summit 21-22 Oct. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447253 |
| Year | 1978 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s ridge-s face |
Members
30 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Martin Anwander | M | 1948 | W Germany | Climber | Hindelang, Bavaria, W Germany | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ludwig Greinwald | M | 1926 | W Germany | Climber | Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bavaria, W Germany | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Dieter Hoelzl | M | 1946 | W Germany | Climber | Weilheim, Bavaria, W Germany | Communications engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Ludwig Huber | M | 1950 | W Germany | Climber | Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bavaria, W Germany | Male nurse | Details Other expeditions |
| Herbert Kaestler | M | 1939 | W Germany | Climber | Weilheim, Bavaria, W Germany | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Heinz Kobler | M | 1941 | W Germany | Climber | Oberammergau, Bavaria, W Germany | Communications engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Franz Neubauer | M | 1935 | W Germany | Climber | Gauting, Bavaria, W Germany | Graphic designer | Details Other expeditions |
| Lothar Reiser | M | 1946 | W Germany | Climber | Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bavaria, W Germany | Bank clerk | Details Other expeditions |
| Wolfgang Schaffert | M | 1948 | W Germany | Exp Doctor | Siegsdorf, Bavaria, W Germany | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Theodor Schneller | M | 1951 | W Germany | Climber | Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bavaria, W Germany | Gardener | Details Other expeditions |
| Max Stueckl | M | 1941 | W Germany | Climber | Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bavaria, W Germany | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Guenter Sturm | M | 1940 | W Germany | Leader | Starnberg, Bavaria, W Germany | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Vogler | M | 1948 | W Germany | Deputy Leader | Durach, Bavaria, W Germany | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Theo Zunterer | M | 1939 | W Germany | Climber | Oberammergau, Bavaria, W Germany | Woodcarver | Details Other expeditions |
| Heinz Hagg | M | 1943 | W Germany | Climber | Kempten, Bavaria, W Germany | Dentist | Details Other expeditions |
| Johann Kellner | M | 1948 | W Germany | Climber | Rosenheim, Bavaria, W Germany | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Bernd Lackner | M | 1945 | W Germany | Climber | Munich, Bavaria, W Germany | Technical assistant (biochemist specialising in bees) | Details Other expeditions |
| Wolfgang Lutz | M | 1937 | W Germany | Climber | Stuttgart, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Wilhelm Adolf Odenthal | M | 1938 | W Germany | Climber | Rheinbach, North Rhine-Westphalia, W Germany | Insurance company employee | Details Other expeditions |
| Franz Pfundstein | M | 1954 | W Germany | Climber | Etting, Bavaria, W Germany | Communications engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Gerhard Schaeuble | M | 1947 | W Germany | Climber | Bad Wiessee, W Germany | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
| Klaus Wanger | M | 1953 | W Germany | Climber | Haag, Bavaria, W Germany | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Udo Zehetleitner | M | 1939 | W Germany | Climber | Kempten, Bavaria, W Germany | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Wilfried Zink | M | 1944 | W Germany | Climber | Erlangen, Bavaria, W Germany | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Angelika (Angela) Zintl | F | 1934 | W Germany | Climber | Puchheim, Bavaria, W Germany | Headmaster | Details Other expeditions |
| Friedrich (Fritz) Zintl | M | 1932 | W Germany | Leader | Puchheim, Bavaria, W Germany | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Pasang Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Nga Temba Sherpa | M | 1950 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Kharikhola, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Chopal Sherpa | M | 1946 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Kharikhola, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Temba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PUTH78301 | AAJ | Sturm, Guenter | - | - | 53:631 (1980) | - |
| PUTH78301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198063101/Asia-Nepal-Putha-Hiunchuli-Dhaulagiri-VII | - | - | - |