Putha Hiunchuli | 1978 S Ridge-S Face

A W Germany expedition to Putha Hiunchuli in 1978 via S Ridge-S Face, led by Guenter Sturm, Fritz Zintl. Summit reached on 8th October 1978. 30 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2162
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUTH78301
Peak ID PUTH
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge-S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany
Leaders Guenter Sturm, Fritz Zintl
Sponsor DAV Expedition to Putha Hiunchuli
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th-7th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Gurjakani->Budzunge La->Kaphe Khola (BC)
Basecamp Date 1978-09-23
Summit Date 1978-10-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 15
Total Days 31
Termination Date 1978-10-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7246
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 26
Summit Members 17
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/09,4450m),C1(25/09,4900m),C2(27/09,5750m),C3(02/10,6300m),Smt(08,12,19/10)
Route Notes Zintl - 31 Oct 78 6th member on 19th Oct was Schaeuble. 1 other 20 minutes (100m) reached below summit Pfundstein. South Ridge route - 3 camps: C3 at 6300m. Lackner fell down couloir and then into crevasse. Base camp was at 4450m. No other accidents or illness, no frostbite. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 31 Oct 78 Summit of Putha Hiunchuli: 08 Oct (from first group) 7 members + 2 Sherpas (see below) 12 Oct (from first group): left Nepal 20 Oct Gunter Sturm (leader) Max Stueckl Theo Zunterer Ludwig Huber Ang Chepal Sherpa 19 Oct (from 2nd group): left KTM 3rd Nov Udo Zehetleitner Wilhelm Odenthal Wolfgang Lutz Mrs Angelika Zintl Fritz Zintl (leader) Gerhard Schaeuble Thus total of 20 have climbed mountain. All are well and leaving BC for KTM on 24 Oct. Col. Ongdi - 31 Oct 78 Sturm and party stayed behind Vogler's group to make 2nd ascent of Putha Hiunchuli and flew to KTM on same day Vogler's group came from Pokhara. Both groups left Nepal together on 20 Oct. Lackner - 17 Oct 78 Fell 40m into crevasse near C2 about 4-5 days ago. Cuts on face and left side leg and arm at first had not feeling, now feels like needles. Hopes to go home with first group. Also arrived by helicopter today from BC: Heinz Hagg who had altitude problems. Peter Vogler - 17 Oct 78 Vogler and 7 arrive KTM today and rest tomorrow. All well with his group. Ministry's report of summiters on 8 Oct correct. No problems climbing and no accidents, etc - all well. 1 member 2nd group Bernd Lackner of Munich came to KTM by helicopter after fall in crevasse near C2, Vogler heard. As the first group of German climbers who conquered 7246m Putha Hiunchuli in the Nepalese Himalayas on 8th October began arriving here today from the mountains, having walked part of the way from their base camp, two members of the second group of German Alpine Club members, who began climbing the same mountain on 11th October, were evacuated today from base to KTM by helicopter because of injuries and illness. Bernd Lackner, 33 a biochemist from Munich and a bachelor, fell 40m into a crevasse near the second high altitude camp at 5750m on Putha Hiunchuli four or five days ago. He is not quite sure which and suffers from superficial cuts about the face and a sensation in his left arm and leg which he describes as being like needles pricking him. He told Reuters from his hospital bed there this evening that several days ago he had no feeling in these limbs at all, and he believes he is getting better. He hopes to go home to Germany with the first group, who leave here on 20 Oct. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 15 Oct 78 8 Oct climbed by 7 members and 2 Sherpas: Peter Vogler Dieter Holzl Herbert Kaestler Lothar Reiser Franz Neubauer Heinz Kobler Martin Andwander Ang Pasang Sherpa Nawa Temba Sherpa Probably from where they made assault: C3 6360m on 2 Oct. 2nd group reached BC 9 Oct and will start climbing on 11 Oct. Sturm - 11 Sept 78 Leave KTM 12 Sept, 8-10 days to BC via Kaphe Khola South Ridge route of '72 Japanese expeditions Maybe 3 high camps maybe 4 (probably 3) 5 Sherpas above BC, Ang Temba sirdar Summit about 8-10th Oct for 1st group 2nd group will arrive BC a few days before 2nd finishes and will use 1st group's fixed ropes, tents, etc; summit 21-22 Oct.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447253
Year 1978
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge-s face

Members

30 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Martin Anwander M 1948 W Germany Climber Hindelang, Bavaria, W Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ludwig Greinwald M 1926 W Germany Climber Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bavaria, W Germany Businessman Details Other expeditions
Dieter Hoelzl M 1946 W Germany Climber Weilheim, Bavaria, W Germany Communications engineer Details Other expeditions
Ludwig Huber M 1950 W Germany Climber Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bavaria, W Germany Male nurse Details Other expeditions
Herbert Kaestler M 1939 W Germany Climber Weilheim, Bavaria, W Germany Businessman Details Other expeditions
Heinz Kobler M 1941 W Germany Climber Oberammergau, Bavaria, W Germany Communications engineer Details Other expeditions
Franz Neubauer M 1935 W Germany Climber Gauting, Bavaria, W Germany Graphic designer Details Other expeditions
Lothar Reiser M 1946 W Germany Climber Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bavaria, W Germany Bank clerk Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Schaffert M 1948 W Germany Exp Doctor Siegsdorf, Bavaria, W Germany Physician Details Other expeditions
Theodor Schneller M 1951 W Germany Climber Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bavaria, W Germany Gardener Details Other expeditions
Max Stueckl M 1941 W Germany Climber Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bavaria, W Germany Engineer Details Other expeditions
Guenter Sturm M 1940 W Germany Leader Starnberg, Bavaria, W Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Peter Vogler M 1948 W Germany Deputy Leader Durach, Bavaria, W Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Theo Zunterer M 1939 W Germany Climber Oberammergau, Bavaria, W Germany Woodcarver Details Other expeditions
Heinz Hagg M 1943 W Germany Climber Kempten, Bavaria, W Germany Dentist Details Other expeditions
Johann Kellner M 1948 W Germany Climber Rosenheim, Bavaria, W Germany Engineer Details Other expeditions
Bernd Lackner M 1945 W Germany Climber Munich, Bavaria, W Germany Technical assistant (biochemist specialising in bees) Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Lutz M 1937 W Germany Climber Stuttgart, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Photographer Details Other expeditions
Wilhelm Adolf Odenthal M 1938 W Germany Climber Rheinbach, North Rhine-Westphalia, W Germany Insurance company employee Details Other expeditions
Franz Pfundstein M 1954 W Germany Climber Etting, Bavaria, W Germany Communications engineer Details Other expeditions
Gerhard Schaeuble M 1947 W Germany Climber Bad Wiessee, W Germany Businessman Details Other expeditions
Klaus Wanger M 1953 W Germany Climber Haag, Bavaria, W Germany Student Details Other expeditions
Udo Zehetleitner M 1939 W Germany Climber Kempten, Bavaria, W Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Wilfried Zink M 1944 W Germany Climber Erlangen, Bavaria, W Germany Physician Details Other expeditions
Angelika (Angela) Zintl F 1934 W Germany Climber Puchheim, Bavaria, W Germany Headmaster Details Other expeditions
Friedrich (Fritz) Zintl M 1932 W Germany Leader Puchheim, Bavaria, W Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ang Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Nga Temba Sherpa M 1950 Nepal H-A Worker Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Chopal Sherpa M 1946 Nepal H-A Worker Kharikhola, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUTH78301 AAJ Sturm, Guenter - - 53:631 (1980) -
PUTH78301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198063101/Asia-Nepal-Putha-Hiunchuli-Dhaulagiri-VII - - -