Putha Hiunchuli | 1978 E Ridge from S

A W Germany expedition to Putha Hiunchuli in 1978 via E Ridge from S, led by Dieter Steigleiter. Summit reached on 17th April 1978. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2131
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUTH78101
Peak ID PUTH
Year 1978
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany
Leaders Dieter Steigleiter
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Gurjakani->Budzunge La->Kaphe Khola (BC)
Basecamp Date 1978-04-04
Summit Date 1978-04-17
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due to loss of equipment from avalanche
High Point (m) 6000
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/04),C1(06/04,4700m),C2(11/04,5550m),C3(17/04,6000),xxx(17/04,6000m)
Route Notes Gunter Sturm - 11 Sept 78 1978 spring German attempt on Putha Hiunchuli (which he himself scaled in Autumn 78 attempted in 1972) was not South Face but really was East Ridge from south. Graf - 26 April 78 At C3 6000m 18 April Graf and Schiemann trapped under avalanche and stopped climbing. Snow avalanche covered C3 and lost much equipment; took more than 2 hours to come out like mouse; no injuries. Two Sherpas, Pemba Tsering and Sonam, were swept down by the avalanche, but were not hurt. Could breathe but barely - "I have lost a dream and won a life." Mr & Mrs Schiemann and Mr & Mrs Steigleiter came to KTM today. Steigleiter - 22 March 78 BC at about 4100m (where Japanese spr 1972 had base) in Kaphe Khola. Route up South Face - difficult route from all previous attempts. If get to East Ridge at all would be only very last part only. 6 Sherpas above BC; sirdar is Dorje Sherpa. Leave KTM Friday 24 to Pokhara by air and then 10-12 days to BC. 3 or 4 camps above BC with highest about 6400m. Most difficult part: iceface of 300-400m just below summit; also stone and ice falling. No oxygen for climbing or sleeping. 3 weeks climbing with summit by end of April.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447079
Year 1978
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge from s

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Dieter Steigleiter M 1942 W Germany Leader Stuttgart, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Karl-Otto Meyer M 1935 W Germany Climber Echzell, Hesse, W Germany Employee in income tax Details Other expeditions
Helmut Kutscher M 1922 W Germany Climber Stuttgart, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Office worker Details Other expeditions
Albert Klein M 1917 W Germany Climber Heilbronn, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Physician Details Other expeditions
Hans Graf M 1929 W Germany Climber Stuttgart, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Office worker (for pharmacist) Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Schiemann M 1934 W Germany Climber Stuttgart, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tsering Sherpa M 1952 Nepal H-A Worker Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Sonam Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUTH78101 AAJ Steigleiter, Dieter - - 53:272 (1979) -
PUTH78101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927203/Asia-Nepal-Putha-Hiunchuli - - -