Putha Hiunchuli | 1976 W Ridge from S

A Japan expedition to Putha Hiunchuli in 1976 via W Ridge from S, led by Kenichi Shindo. Summit reached on 13th October 1976. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2190
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUTH76301
Peak ID PUTH
Year 1976
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kenichi Shindo
Sponsor Putha Hiunchuli W Ridge Expedition (Japan Rock Climbing Society)
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1976-09-14
Summit Date 1976-10-13
Summit Time -
Summit Days 29
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6614m due to route difficulty along W Ridge of Putha Hiunchuli
High Point (m) 6614
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed unnamed 6614m peak via SW Ridge [not Dogari Himal]
Campsites BC(14/09,4500m),C1A(24/09,5200m),C1B(28/09,5100m),C2(04/10,5800m),C3(12/10,6500m),xxx(13/10,6614m)
Route Notes Climbing abandoned 15 Oct. Shindo - 21 Nov 76 3 weeks searching for route. Trying 1st from South Ridge of Peak 6614m, but 200m rock face. Then tried SW Ridge and put 3 camps along this route with C2 and C3 on this ridge. From there to 6614m summit and down ridge and up Putha Hiunchuli W Ridge. Kobayashi and Pemba Tsering reached summit of 6614m peak 13 Oct, but then ridge down difficult: 13 Oct Kobayashi and Pemba Tsering could not find route on this steep ridge and returned to C3. 2 days later Kobayashi and Pemba Tsering went north side of 6614m peak 500m below summit and traversed snow slope, searching for route for few days but not found. Snow slope big avalanches and hidden crevasses: too dangerous and not enough food to try long route around 6614m to Putha Hiunchuli summit = 10 days more, so had to decide all go down on 15 Oct. Like Alps: steep route = 3-4 more members and climbing Sherpas also. MB Pandey, MFA - 31 Oct 76 C3 established then abandoned; could not find good route 13 Oct. MFA - 27 Sept 76 29 Badra = 14 Sept 12:30 4500m BC Putha Hiunchuli Shindo - 22 Aug 76 New route definite via point 6614m (Pt 21,699 ft). Leave KTM 26 Aug by road to Pokhara; leave Pokhara 28 or 29 Aug; caravan to BC 15-18 days. Climbing 40 days so summit mid-Oct. Doctor will go from Pokhara with expedition, but probably not all the way to BC; he has no time. Kobayashi & Mizukawa (via Otsu) - 15 Aug 76 17th climbing leader, etc arrive. Only 2 here now. Route via South Ridge of point 21,699 (6614m) which is unnamed ([incorrectly] given name Dogari Peak) perhaps to summit of point 21,699 anyway; traverse its southeast side to its East Ridge which is West Ridge of Putha Hiunchuli or direct. Putha Hiunchuli from SW Face to last bit (highest bit) of SW Ridge. This last bit only same part of route SW Ridge route of other expeditions BC - 4000m in Dogari Khola C1 - 4700m in Khola also C2 - 5500m on Peak 21,699 C3 - 6300m height on this peak C4 - 6500m on ridge between Peak 21,699 and Putha Hiunchuli or if take more direct route then plan camps from C2; maybe 2 camps more, maybe 1 and biv. 4 Sherpas including and 1 cook Leave KTM 23 Aug, leave Pokhara 26 Aug, arrive BC 8 Sept, on summit 5 Oct No climbing with oxygen
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446526
Year 1976
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge from s

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Takayuki Kobayashi M 1949 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Businessman (service cleaning home interiors) Details Other expeditions
Shuji Miyamoto M 1952 Japan Climber Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Tadashi Mizukawa M 1951 Japan Climber Shimonoseki, Japan Computer programmer Details Other expeditions
Iwao Saito M 1948 Japan Climber Nagareyama, Chiba, Japan Cook (in a French restaurant) Details Other expeditions
Kenichi Shindo M 1949 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Sales staff member, export-import company Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tshering Sherpa M 1943 Nepal H-A Worker Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUTH76301 AAJ Guha, Kamal K. - - 51:243 (1977) -