Putha Hiunchuli | 1972 S Ridge-S Face

A Japan expedition to Putha Hiunchuli in 1972 via S Ridge-S Face, led by Tadaaki Sahashi. Summit reached on 14th October 1972. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2357
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUTH72301
Peak ID PUTH
Year 1972
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge-S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Tadaaki Sahashi
Sponsor Himalayan Exped of Nagoya YMCA Alpine Club to Putha Hiunchuli
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd,4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1972-09-18
Summit Date 1972-10-14
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 26
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7246
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/09,4500m),C1(21/09,5050m),C2(26/09,5500m),C3(30/09,5720m),C4(09/10,6400m),Smt(14,16/10)
Route Notes Sahashi & Pritchand - 31 Oct 72 Trekking to Tukuche: Fujiwara, Ito, Sakaue, Aoyama Matsuo in Pokhara 4 days. Sahashi and Pritchard ex-Pokhara by 9-10 hours today. 14 Oct Matsuo and Sirdar Nawang Samden on summit at 4:00 pm, followed 30 minutes by Aoyama, Sakaue and Fujiwara. 16 Oct Pritchand, Ito and Kanchha Sherpa on summit about 1 pm. Sahashi attempted, reached 7100m and then feet got very cold and tired. C4 at 6400m highest camp, established 9 Oct. Next days to make route, fix ropes. Bad weather on 6th and 7th: wind and heavy snowfall. Took Pritchard 3 hours longer than used on 1 run. Not exceptionally easy; moderate climb, but can be extremely difficult: if more ice could have been technically quite difficult. Did not use easy SW Ridge. Up rather steep (40-45 degrees avalanche [chute?]). South Ridge, essentially same route Seppyo Party used in April 1972. No drastic incidents, accidents or illness. When going up to C1 Sherpas said there's a yeti, but Pritchand couldn't see. Mixed snow and rock with lot of rock. 1 of Japanese Sakaue said he saw it but long way away and small. Pritchard did see tracks and Pritchard now believes in Yeti. Not a small bear, not like any normal mammal. Saw tracks up and down slope across path from BC to C1 in bad snow at 4800-5000m on 3 Oct and 19 Oct half mile apart. 2nd tracks Japanese also saw. Pritchard worked in woods as forester and is accustomed to looking at tracks. 12" long x 5" wide, curved down at end like fingers: doesn't weigh as much as I do and I weigh 150 lbs; looks like 80-lbs Donald Duck in bedrooms slippers. Sahashi himself did not see yeti or tracks but believes in yeti. Shrestha, MFA - 24 Oct 72 Climbed on 14 Oct at 4 pm Hiroyuki Matsuo Sirdar Nawang Samden Other 5 members climbed on 16th Fujiwara Y. Aoyama K Sataye D. Ito James Pritchard Kanchha Sherpa Sahashi, NC - 26 Sept 72 Putha Hiunchuli 18 Sept BC 4500m 21 Sept C1 5050m 26 Sept C2 5500m about 28 C3 Jim trouble with his ears so he at base and leader also not so well and at base. Dhaulagiri IV - will be finishing climbing in 15 days; very big snow on 24-25 Sep, 25 cms deep. Sahashi saw Yeti, no details. Sahashi - 31 Aug 72 Sahashi and Fujiwara to stay KTM today. All others Pokhara by air today. Sahashi and Fujiwara to Pokhara tomorrow. Start caravan from Pokhara on 2 Sept. Sahashi - 27 Aug 72 1 arrive today; Minoura not coming to Nepal because of auto accident. Sahashi = Deputy Leader 30 or 31 to Pokhara; 3-4 days later from Pokhara; arrive BC about 15 Sept. West Ridge very hard for us so we search West Ridge, maybe South Face. Summit attack 9-12 Oct. Fujiwara & Pritchard - 16 Aug 72 Base Kaphe Khola, same approach as this spring's expedition. On to South Ridge and then perhaps via South Face or possibly over South Ridge and onto West Ridge. Probably repeat this spring's route but decision to be made when get to the mountain. This expedition planned 1 year ago, before this spring's success. This the 1st YMCA Alpine Club in Nepal. 8 members and 3 Sherpas + 2 kitchen boys. Leave KTM about 30 Aug to Pokhara on scheduled flight; leave Pokhara about 3 Sept and arrive base about 15-16 Sept. 4 camps planned above base (but Pritchard expects at least a bivouac if not another camp in addition). Summit attack 10-12 Oct.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445062
Year 1972
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge-s face

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yasuo Minoura M 1933 Japan Leader Akita-shi, Akita, Japan Staff member, Hachirogata New Community Development Corporation Details Other expeditions
Tadaaki Sahashi M 1933 Japan Deputy Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Yukio Aoyama M 1944 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Staff member, Toyota Corrolla Nagoya Co. Details Other expeditions
Hiroyuki Matsuo M 1941 Japan Climber Owariasahi, Aichi, Japan Staff member, Mitsubishi Electric Co. Details Other expeditions
Toshihiko Fujiwara M 1941 Japan Climber Takai, Aichi, Japan Staff member, Nippon Steel Corporation Nagoya Works Details Other expeditions
Daizaburo Ito M 1946 Japan Climber Minokamo, Gifu, Japan Staff member, Kaijirushi Razor Corp., Seki city Details Other expeditions
Koichi Sakaue M 1948 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Staff member, Osaka Steel Industry Details Other expeditions
James A. Pritchard M 1938 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Until recently was science teacher in Canadian Academy, Kobe Details Other expeditions
Nawang Samden Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Kanchha Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUTH72301 AAJ - - - 47:486 (1973) -
PUTH72301 HJ Sahashi, Tadaaki Putha Hiunchuli, 1972 - 33:49-52 (1973-74) -
PUTH72301 MM - - - 25:10 (Jan 1973) -
PUTH72301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197348604/Asia-Nepal-Putha-Hiunchuli - - -
PUTH72301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/33/11/putha-hiunchuli-1972/ - - -