Pumori | 1998 SE Face/Ridge by 2 members (to 7000m)

A Italy expedition to Pumori in 1998 via SE Face/Ridge by 2 members (to 7000m), led by Michele Comi. Summit reached on 12th October 1998. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3136
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO98303
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1998
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face/Ridge by 2 members (to 7000m)
Route 2 SW Ridge by 2 other members
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Michele Comi
Sponsor Pumori Expedition 1998
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 125
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1998-09-28
Summit Date 1998-10-12
Summit Time 0630
Summit Days 14
Total Days 20
Termination Date 1998-10-18
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/09,5050m),ABC(05/10,5000m),ABC(12/10,5500m),xxx(12/10,7000m on SE Face), Smt(12/10 on SW Ridge)
Route Notes BC at Lobuche (Pyramid Research Lab) ABC for southeast side pair High point on SE Face/Ridge route. Comi and Magliano went up normal route on SE Face/Ridge with deposit 5800m and biv at 6250m on 11 Oct and at midnight of 11/12 Oct started for top but turned back at 7000m because impossible for 2 people to reach higher in very deep snow. On 12th at 7:00 am other 2 members met them at biv in descent from summit via SW Ridge (Japanese route). Bufacchi and Passino had gone up on 10th Oct from 5500m and spent 2 nights on climb, one at 6000m at Col of ridge and other night at 6500m on SW Ridge to top on 12th about 6:30 am. All back in pyramid on 13 Oct evening. SE site too dangerous with serac threatening to break off and climbers exposed for 3 hours to this danger. Passino wanted to do SW Ridge because it safer while Magliano not capable of such a technical route.
Accidents Nothing
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454582
Year 1998
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face/ridge by 2 members (to 7000m)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jacopo Bufacchi M 1977 Italy Climber Courmayeur, Aosta, Italy Student Details Other expeditions
Michele Comi M 1969 Italy Leader Chiesa Valmalenco, Sondrio, Italy Geologist & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alberto Magliano M 1945 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Business manager Details Other expeditions
Giorgio Passino M 1961 Italy Climber Courmayeur, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO98303 HIGH - - - 198:36 (May 1999) -
PUMO98303 - - http://www.sevensummits.it/Attivita/spedizioni.asp - - -