Pumori | 1997 S Face (new route to S Pillar)(to 6250m)

A Slovenia expedition to Pumori in 1997 via S Face (new route to S Pillar)(to 6250m), led by Tomaz Humar. Summit reached on 15th October 1997. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3260
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO97307
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1997
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face (new route to S Pillar)(to 6250m)
Route 2 SE Ridge/Face-E Ridge
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Tomaz Humar
Sponsor Slovenian Expedition to Pumori and Nuptse 1997
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 118
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Mexico
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-09-24
Summit Date 1997-10-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 21
Total Days 24
Termination Date 1997-10-18
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Lobuche East (LOBE-973-01) and Nuptse NW Smt (NUPW-973-01)
Campsites BC(24/09,5400m),C1(29/09,5860m),C2(04/10,6200m),C3(09/10,6250m),Smt(15/10)
Route Notes While 3 members climbed Lobuche East, other 6 members fixed ropes and established 2 camps on Pumori. Humar, Consolio, Kovac and Jeglic went for new route and reached 6250m on SE Face; had started at 6:00 am on 9th Oct and got this high point at about 11:00 pm and put tent there; could see members on normal route at same altitude and they went up and rescued injured member of Slovak Czech expedition. Those on new SE Face route went down to help with rescue on 10th. No return to new SE Face route. 14 Oct up on normal route to 6400m Slovak tent by some and others to our C2. 15 Oct pushed to top and same day back in BC. 19 Oct 97 - Ochoa on Lhotse expedition: Slovenes went up very, very fast on 9th Oct to rescue Slovak. 9 Oct 97 - Humar again - made new route on S Face to French South Pillar (French winter 1996 and French 1972). Stopped on this pillar at 6250m to go to help rescue Slovak and did not return to this route because they took several days taking care of the injured man (his leader not helpful, not around) and weather was changing daily. Went back to normal route because Nuptse climbers needed Pumori's summit for acclimatization. Had fixed 29 Oct as date to leave Nepal (and most members did). On 1 Oct, Humar, Jeglic and Carsolio climbed Lobuche East by new route: NE Face up, SE side down.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID NUPW97301
Checksum 2454219
Year 1997
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face (new route to s pillar)(to 6250m)

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vinko Bercic-Cenko M 1959 Slovenia Deputy Leader Kamnik, Slovenia Wood technician Details Other expeditions
Carlos Miguel Carsolio Larrea M 1962 Mexico Climber Mexico City, Mexico Motivational speaker and outdoor leadership trainer Details Other expeditions
Tomaz Humar M 1969 Slovenia Leader Kamnik, Slovenia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Janez Jeglic M 1961 Slovenia Climber Domzale, Slovenia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Damjan Kocar M 1973 Slovenia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Franc Kokakj M 1959 Slovenia Exp Doctor Straza, Slovenia Physician Details Other expeditions
Marjan Kovac M 1964 Slovenia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Franc Osolnik M 1947 Slovenia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia Technician Details Other expeditions
Viktor Tersoglav M 1959 Slovenia Climber Blejska Dobrava, Slovenia Veterinarian Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.