Pumori | 1996 SE Face-E Ridge

A France expedition to Pumori in 1996 via SE Face-E Ridge, led by Christophe Profit. Summit reached on 1st December 1996. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2094
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO96401
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1996
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face-E Ridge
Route 2 S Pillar up; E Ridge-SE Face down
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Christophe Profit
Sponsor Zoe Pumori Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 116
Ascent 2 117
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-11-26
Summit Date 1996-12-01
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 5
Total Days 18
Termination Date 1996-12-14
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/11,3300m),Biv1(08/12,6300m),Biv2(09/12,6500m),Biv3(10/12,6900m),Smt(01,11/12)
Route Notes BC at foot of Kalapattar's ridge at small lake Biv1 on South Pillar Biv2 on South Pillar Biv3 on South Pillar. First for acclimatization went on 1 Dec at 1:00 am 5 members [not Baugey] left BC to go to East Col and at Col via normal route on southeast side at 8:30 am; C1 at Col; Besson, Rhem and Ruby decided to go down (tired) while Blanchard and Profit went to top at 3:00 pm and back to BC at 11:00 pm. Then to French route on South Face: left BC 8 Dec at 4:00 am by five (not Blanchard) but Ruby found route too hard and gave up at bergschrund, so did little real climbing. Other 4 biv at 6300m just at bottom of 2nd steep; biv 2 next day (9th) at 6500m also on French Pillar at bottom of 3rd step. 10th went to ice pully on right of pillar because "nice route" with ice climbing where no ridge had ice flutes and not so safe and then returned to pillar route top of 3rd step at 6900m. 4th step above was only 50m high and was climbed on 11th on way to summit. 4 members returned to BC 5:00 pm. Most difficult parts: 1st day of snow in gully and ice flutes obstructing it; 2nd day's 2nd step's vertical rock "was very nice adventure" without any recce climb: "we climbed as we think" when were on face and "we respect most important thing: the engagement with the mountain." Descended from summit via 1st Dec route, to Col and down southeast side, normal route. Expectation of descending normal route was another reason to have climbed it on 1st Dec. Did not descend pillar because had not fixed any rope on it.
Accidents Nothing serious, but Blanchard did not recover from respiratory ailment
Achievement -
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453900
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face-e ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Samuel Baugey M 1971 France Climber Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Olivier Besson M 1962 France Climber Megeve, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean Blanchard M 1950 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Christophe Profit M 1961 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre Andre Rhem M 1970 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jerome Ruby M 1970 France Climber Argentiere, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO96401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 72:303-304 (1998) -
PUMO96401 HIGH - - - 177:25 (Aug 1997) -
PUMO96401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830303/Asia-Nepal-Various-Winter-Ascents - - -