Pumori | 1996 S Face/Buttress
A UK expedition to Pumori in 1996 via S Face/Buttress, led by Joe Simpson. Summit reached on 4th November 1996. 4 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1990 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | PUMO96303 |
| Peak ID | PUMO |
| Year | 1996 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Face/Buttress |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Joe Simpson |
| Sponsor | Pumori Southeast Buttress Expedition |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1996-10-21 |
| Summit Date | 1996-11-04 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 14 |
| Total Days | 16 |
| Termination Date | 1996-11-06 |
| Termination Reason | 7 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned on 4 Nov due to Delaney's serious headache |
| High Point (m) | 6150 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 4 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(21/10,5300m),Biv(02/11,5700m),Biv(03/11,6100m),xxx(04/11,6150m) |
| Route Notes | BC near lake Biv right of rock buttress on South Face High point at South Face. Simpson and Delaney in alpine-style climb reached 6150m when Delaney got sick and down to BC on 4 Nov. 29 Oct Potter and Tattersall carried gear to about 5500m dumped it there and down because of Tattersall's chest infection, they left BC 31 Oct; Potter didn't like route. Simpson by phone: at 5950m rock buttress on South Face became impossible, so had to turn it on the right. Then Delaney got sick, Simpson didn't want to climb solo, so abandoned climb. Perhaps could have tried again later, but didn't care about doing so. |
| Accidents | Delaney serious headache; Tattersall chest infection |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Arun Treks |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2453873 |
| Year | 1996 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s face/buttress |
Members
4 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Raymond (Ray) Delaney | M | 1956 | UK | Climber | Voorburg, Netherlands | Outdoor clothing and equipment shop owner | Details Other expeditions |
| Richard Fraser (Ric) Potter | M | 1965 | UK | Climber | Highgate, London, England | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Bruce Joseph (Joe) Simpson | M | 1960 | UK | Leader | Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England | Author | Details Other expeditions |
| Ian Tattersall | M | 1950 | UK | Climber | Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire, England | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
References
2 recorded references.