Pumori | 1994 W Ridge from SW

A Switzerland expedition to Pumori in 1994 via W Ridge from SW, led by Aldo Verzaroli. Summit reached on 17th November 1994. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1390
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO94310
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge from SW
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Aldo Verzaroli
Sponsor Swiss Pumori Expedition 1994
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-11-10
Summit Date 1994-11-17
Summit Time -
Summit Days 7
Total Days 8
Termination Date 1994-11-18
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6200m due to difficulty of route, lack of time and rope
High Point (m) 6200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/11,5300m),C1(14/11,5900m),xxx(17/11,6200m)
Route Notes BC near point 5295 on NGS map west of Kalapattar (between the two) High point at right side of small North-South ridge coming from Pumori West Ridge. First trekked in Langtang with a group he led. This had originally been planned for after Pumori climb in Sept-Oct, but he was not fit enough for climb then, so put scheduled trek first and followed it with Pumori attempt. Tried three times to reach W Ridge (or NW Ridge), but "the problem was the places below it" on mountain's west side with very big crevasse. 1st on 11th Nov tried to cross just under West Face, reached 5600m and then not possible to cross crevasse and very dangerous serac on right side of glacier, too dangerous alone. 2nd was 12 Nov Verzaroli and climbing cook, Tirtha Tamang (3 times 8000ers) tried to cross middle of glaciers, crossed many very small faces up and down and after 5 hours at 5800m abandoned this and again back to BC. 3rd on 14th Nov Verzaroli and Tamang made a camp at beginning of small ridge. Stopped at 6180m with bad weather (snowfall and wind in afternoon) so put equipment there and down to BC. 17th Verzaroli and Tamang returned to equipment and crossed 150m on rock wall but this took 2 hours carrying 20 kg each with tent. Now at 6200m decided to stop: would have to cross more glacier, need fixed ropes for descent. Problem is to reach col and after that not so difficult but not possible to solo this route.
Accidents Nothing
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453153
Year 1994
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge from sw

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Aldo Verzaroli M 1955 Switzerland Leader Bellinzona, Ticino, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Tirtha Tamang M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Lapcha, Gorakhani, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO94310 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:242-243 (1995) -
PUMO94310 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199524205/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Post-Monsoon-Ascent-and-Attempts - - -