Pumori | 1993 SE Ridge/Face direct
A USA expedition to Pumori in 1993 via SE Ridge/Face direct, led by Timothy Brill. Summit reached on 25th October 1993. 10 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1270 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | PUMO93303 |
| Peak ID | PUMO |
| Year | 1993 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Ridge/Face direct |
| Route 2 | SE Face-E Ridge |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Timothy Brill |
| Sponsor | Nepal Pumori Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | True |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 83rd |
| Ascent 2 | 85th |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1993-10-16 |
| Summit Date | 1993-10-25 |
| Summit Time | 1630 |
| Summit Days | 9 |
| Total Days | 15 |
| Termination Date | 1993-10-31 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7138 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 800 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(16/10,5350m),C1(20/10,5750m),C2(21/10,6250m),C3(24/10,6500m),Smt(25,27/10) |
| Route Notes | Fixed rope from C1 to C3 with British-Polish. 14th Oct Beavan and Pierson left C2 for ascent directly up SE Face (not via col) and reached 6700m and bived here without biv equipment. 25th left biv 7 am and 4:30 pm on summit. Slow because snow unconsolidated. Descended SE Ridge to C2 where they arrived at 7 pm. 26th they descended SE Ridge to C2 where they arrived at 7 pm. 26th they descended to BC. Scaturro and Gordon left C3 28th and reached top 1 pm and returned to C3 about 4 pm; 28th down to BC but at c1 pm at 6100m Gordon fell, apparently did not clip in properly and body found by teammates and Brit just above C1 in terms of altitude but in couloir about 100m from C1; body intact but having fallen head over heels, was very badly broken. As soon as Gordon died, climb called off. Body left near where found covered by rocks. Dubois of UK-Polish team - 8 Nov 93: Brill very good organizer. Americans well organized, well equipped, but members not very experienced and Brill not a professional guide. Todd, UK-Polish leader - 15 Dec 93: Dubois is a strong person and his judgemant not connected with reality. Brill is an irresponsible leader whom no one should be associated with. |
| Accidents | Kitchen boy Anganbu nearly died of pulmonary edema, taken down to Pheriche |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT) |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2452719 |
| Year | 1993 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se ridge/face direct |
Members
10 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Craig Adams | M | 1954 | USA | Climber | Salt Lake City, Utah | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Donald (Don) Beavon | M | 1956 | USA | Climber | Lynnwood, Washington | Respiratory therapist | Details Other expeditions |
| Timothy Brill | M | 1959 | USA | Leader | Graham, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Gregory Gordon | M | 1946 | USA | Exp Doctor | Santa Fe, New Mexico | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Edward Leroy (Lee) Klopfer | M | 1956 | USA | Climber | Santa Fe, New Mexico | Landscape architect | Details Other expeditions |
| David Luskin | M | 1953 | USA | Climber | Boulder, Colorado | Pilot | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrew Morabito | M | 1952 | USA | Climber | Paterson, New Jersey | Firefighter | Details Other expeditions |
| William Earl (Bill) Pierson | M | 1957 | USA | Climber | Hermosa Beach, California | Film technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasquale Vincent Scaturro | M | 1953 | USA | Climber | Lakewood, Colorado | Geologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Steven Swift | M | 1948 | USA | Climber | Fairbanks, Alaska | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PUMO93303 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 68:217-218 (1994) | - |
| PUMO93303 | HIGH | - | - | - | 138:8 (May 1994) | - |
| PUMO93303 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199421703/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Ascents-Tragedy-and-Attempt | - | - | - |