Pumori | 1993 SE Ridge/Face direct

A USA expedition to Pumori in 1993 via SE Ridge/Face direct, led by Timothy Brill. Summit reached on 25th October 1993. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1270
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO93303
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1993
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge/Face direct
Route 2 SE Face-E Ridge
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Timothy Brill
Sponsor Nepal Pumori Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 83rd
Ascent 2 85th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-10-16
Summit Date 1993-10-25
Summit Time 1630
Summit Days 9
Total Days 15
Termination Date 1993-10-31
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 800
Total Members 10
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/10,5350m),C1(20/10,5750m),C2(21/10,6250m),C3(24/10,6500m),Smt(25,27/10)
Route Notes Fixed rope from C1 to C3 with British-Polish. 14th Oct Beavan and Pierson left C2 for ascent directly up SE Face (not via col) and reached 6700m and bived here without biv equipment. 25th left biv 7 am and 4:30 pm on summit. Slow because snow unconsolidated. Descended SE Ridge to C2 where they arrived at 7 pm. 26th they descended SE Ridge to C2 where they arrived at 7 pm. 26th they descended to BC. Scaturro and Gordon left C3 28th and reached top 1 pm and returned to C3 about 4 pm; 28th down to BC but at c1 pm at 6100m Gordon fell, apparently did not clip in properly and body found by teammates and Brit just above C1 in terms of altitude but in couloir about 100m from C1; body intact but having fallen head over heels, was very badly broken. As soon as Gordon died, climb called off. Body left near where found covered by rocks. Dubois of UK-Polish team - 8 Nov 93: Brill very good organizer. Americans well organized, well equipped, but members not very experienced and Brill not a professional guide. Todd, UK-Polish leader - 15 Dec 93: Dubois is a strong person and his judgemant not connected with reality. Brill is an irresponsible leader whom no one should be associated with.
Accidents Kitchen boy Anganbu nearly died of pulmonary edema, taken down to Pheriche
Achievement -
Agency Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452719
Year 1993
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge/face direct

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Craig Adams M 1954 USA Climber Salt Lake City, Utah Photographer Details Other expeditions
Donald (Don) Beavon M 1956 USA Climber Lynnwood, Washington Respiratory therapist Details Other expeditions
Timothy Brill M 1959 USA Leader Graham, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gregory Gordon M 1946 USA Exp Doctor Santa Fe, New Mexico Physician Details Other expeditions
Edward Leroy (Lee) Klopfer M 1956 USA Climber Santa Fe, New Mexico Landscape architect Details Other expeditions
David Luskin M 1953 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Pilot Details Other expeditions
Andrew Morabito M 1952 USA Climber Paterson, New Jersey Firefighter Details Other expeditions
William Earl (Bill) Pierson M 1957 USA Climber Hermosa Beach, California Film technician Details Other expeditions
Pasquale Vincent Scaturro M 1953 USA Climber Lakewood, Colorado Geologist Details Other expeditions
Steven Swift M 1948 USA Climber Fairbanks, Alaska Engineer Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO93303 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:217-218 (1994) -
PUMO93303 HIGH - - - 138:8 (May 1994) -
PUMO93303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199421703/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Ascents-Tragedy-and-Attempt - - -