Pumori | 1991 SE Face-E Ridge

A France expedition to Pumori in 1991 via SE Face-E Ridge, led by Jean-Noel Roche. Summit reached on 15th September 1991. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 587
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO91301
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1991
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face-E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Jean-Noel Roche
Sponsor Pumori 1991
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 65th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-09-03
Summit Date 1991-09-15
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 12
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/09,5300m),C1(07/09,5800m),C2(09/09,6400m),Smt(15/09)
Route Notes BC near lake C2 at top of a buttress (normal site). Fixed rope from C1 to C2 only. Route led to big pass and then towards summit around seracs, etc. ("not a good ridge"). After C2 established, all to BC. Summit push began 12th Sept. To C1 that night by 4 members and 2 Sherpas. 14th all 6 to C2. On 15th Feruglio, Laurenceau, Roche and Dawa leave C2 at 3:00 am because snow conditions better: at 6:30 am sun is on SE Face and reached top at 11:00 am together and all Ok. But at 7:30-8:00 am avalanche hit Marigot, Saidi and Gyalzen at about 6600m when small avalanche came from face down small gullies; had left C2 6:30 am because Saidi and Gyalzen slightly sick from stomach. Roche told them to stay in camp, but Marigot came up from C1 and urged Saidi and Gyalzen down (roped together but Marigot not roped to them, was 15m from them). Marigot stayed on face waiting for summit party but radioed to Everest BC about avalanche and 4 Sherpas. Pivot and wife (Dr.) reached Pumori BC 9:00-10:00 am, saw 2 bodies on face from Everest BC. Bodies at same altitude as C1 but very dangerous to go to them because of dangerous unstable seracs. Next day bodies covered by more avalanches.
Accidents Only fatal avalanche
Achievement -
Agency Sherpa Society
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451946
Year 1991
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face-e ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Laurent Feruglio M 1971 France Climber Montfermeil, Seine-St-Denis, France Student Details Other expeditions
Nicolas Flechier M 1972 France Climber Montfermeil, Seine-St-Denis, France Student Details Other expeditions
Stephane Laurenceau M 1973 France Climber Corps, Isere, France Student Details Other expeditions
Stephane Marigot M 1974 France Climber Vizille, Isere, France Student Details Other expeditions
Jean-Noel Roche M 1949 France Leader Lanslevillard, Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Brahim Saidi M 1973 France Climber Montfermeil, Seine-St-Denis, France Student Details Other expeditions
Dawa Rinje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Gyalzen Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO91301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 66:207 (1992) -
PUMO91301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199220702/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Post-Monsoon-Ascents-Tragedies-and-Attempts-via-the-Southeast-Face-to-the-East-Ridge - - -