Pumori | 1990 SE Face-NE Ridge

A USA expedition to Pumori in 1990 via SE Face-NE Ridge, led by Andrew Lapkass. Summit reached on 27th October 1990. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 685
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO90309
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1990
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face-NE Ridge
Route 2 S Ridge up; NE Ridge-SE Face down
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Andrew Lapkass
Sponsor 1990 American Pumori
Success 1 True
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 55th,56th
Ascent 2 59th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-10-21
Summit Date 1990-10-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 6
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Pokalde (Kendall, Lapkass and Radford)
Campsites BC(21/10,5300m),C1(24/10,6200m),Smt(27,30/10,03/11)
Route Notes BC below smaller lake to SE of mountain C1 atop a rock rib at snow lane on SE Face (normal C2). Fixed ropes on normal route up SE face with idea of acclimatizing here and then going to South Col and South Ridge and use normal route via NE Ridge and down route they'd fixed. On SE Face was in such good condition were able to pitch C1 on 24th. 25th C1 stocked. 26th Lapkass and Kendall up to sleep in C1 and on 27th 3:00 am started up from C1, fixing rope and climbing went very fast and just carried on to summit via East Col and NE Ridge and descended to BC on same day. Confident now that climb for clients was quickest and safest way to top. 28th Jennings and Radford to C1 for summit on 29th but had restless night and spent extra day at C1. 29th J Lapkass, Schneider and A Lapkass to C1. 30th 10:05 am Jennings and Radford to C1 for summit on 29th but had restless night and spent extra day at C1. 29th J Lapkass, Schneider and A Lapkass left for top. Schneider stayed in C1. 30th 4 men to top at noon and back to C1 at 5:00 pm, clients exhausted. 31st to BC (Schneider to BC 30th afternoon). 1st and 2nd Nov rest days. 3rd Nov 00:05 am A Lapkass from BC to S Col and S Ridge, on top at 8:00 am and down normal route to BC at 11:30 am in solo traverse. French and US worked well together.
Accidents None
Achievement Andy Lapkass climbed three times; also made 1st solo traverse and 3rd solo ascent (Nov 3)
Agency Tawache
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451622
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face-ne ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Bob Bissett M 1960 USA Climber Austin, Texas Technician Details Other expeditions
James (Jim) Jennings M 1956 USA Climber Telluride, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Max Kendall M 1963 USA Climber Telluride, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Andrew Atis (Andy) Lapkass M 1958 USA Leader Ukiah, California Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
John Lapkass M 1956 USA Exp Doctor Anchorage, Alaska Orthopedic surgeon Details Other expeditions
Geoffery Radford M 1954 USA Climber Anchorage, Alaska Geologist Details Other expeditions
Jeff Schneider M 1951 USA Climber Crested Butte, Colorado Carpenter & ski patrolman Details Other expeditions
Priscilla Wells F 1944 USA Climber Telluride, Colorado Real estate saleswoman & outdoor-activities guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO90309 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 65:232 (1991) -
PUMO90309 MM - - - 137:9 (Jan 1991) -
PUMO90309 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199123201/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Ascents-and-Traverse - - -