Pumori | 1990 Pumori W Basin-W Ridge

A USA expedition to Pumori in 1990 via Pumori W Basin-W Ridge, led by Steve Van Meter. Summit reached on 9th October 1990. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 683
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO90304
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1990
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Pumori W Basin-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Steve Van Meter
Sponsor Colorado Pumori Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-09-23
Summit Date 1990-10-09
Summit Time 0700
Summit Days 16
Total Days 18
Termination Date 1990-10-11
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6890m due to rock striking McCormick
High Point (m) 6890
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/09,5350m),C1(28/09,5790m),C2(04/10,6480m),Biv(08/10,6860m),xxx(09/10,6890m)
Route Notes BC near point 5295 on National Geographic map C1 in middle of 1st icefall C2 at top of Col on West Ridge Biv on West Ridge High point on West Ridge. From BC climbed along ridge N from Pt 5295, then west to left of Pt 5412 a glacier; then skirted 2nd icefall to bottom of col and up 1000 ft of 70 degrees ice to col and fixed 1000 ft of rope here. Col at 21,300 ft they figured (=6492m - map says 6479m), where finally joined W Ridge and put C2, all 3 members together. On 5th Oct McCormick and Nowak down to base of col for more rope and all met at C1. 7th Oct all rested in C2. 8th all 3 got through 1st rock stop, dug snow cave a 22,500 ft (6860m) and slept there. At 4:00 am 9th got up and left by 6:00 am and were going for summit when Nowak knocked off loose rock in shale steps only a rope length above cave and it arced downwards and hit McCormick who looked around and up from a very protected spot rock smashed his glasses and blood formed behind his eye. Climb immediately aborted, Nowak lowered Van Meter 1st and then McCormick. Reached C2 by 4 pm. To BC on 10th and left BC 11th. McCormick to Lukla in 2 days. McCormick was able to stumble down did not go into shock. Lucky to be alive.
Accidents McCormick eye injured by falling rock
Achievement -
Agency Nepal Himal
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451604
Year 1990
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) pumori w basin-w ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Gilbert (Gil) McCormick M 1963 USA Climber Lakewood, Colorado Aerospace manufacturing analyst Details Other expeditions
James (Jim) Nowak M 1953 USA Deputy Leader Vail, Colorado Construction contractor Details Other expeditions
R. Steven (Steve) Van Meter M 1955 USA Leader Denver, Colorado Chartered accountant Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO90304 AAJ Van Meter, Steve - - 65:230-231 (1991) -
PUMO90304 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199123005/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Northwest-Ridge-Attempt-and-Near-Tragedy - - -