Pumori | 1989 SE Face/Ridge

A Italy expedition to Pumori in 1989 via SE Face/Ridge, led by Marino Giacometti. Summit reached on 18th September 1989. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 357
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO89301
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1989
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face/Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Marino Giacometti
Sponsor Everest-K2-C.N.R. 1989 to Pumori
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 43rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-08-31
Summit Date 1989-09-18
Summit Time 0930
Summit Days 18
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(31/08,4930m),ABC(03/09,5300m),Dep(10/09,5750m),Smt(18/09)
Route Notes BC above (1 hour) Gorak Shep near lake Deposit C1 on rock ridge above lake (where snow began). 1st summit push 16th Sept by Giacometti and Santin. Reached 6400m and turned back because of bad snow conditions underfoot and was snowing. 18th Sept 2nd summit push: Giacometti started from ABC at midnight of 17/18th, reached depot at 1:15 am and left here with them 2:10 am used no fixed rope but were roped together, climbed continuously, slowly to summit, while reached at 9:30 am. "Some tired" at top where stayed about 30 mins. Clouds coming quite foggy and warm with avalanche problem so descended quickly. Reached depot camp at 13:15 hrs. Giacometti stopped 15 mins and was in ABC at 14 hrs. Other 2 down to ABC later after clearing some of depot's gear. Giacometti's 14-hr round trip beats Batard's 17 hrs in 1988.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Trekking International
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451217
Year 1989
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face/ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marco Barmasse M 1949 Italy Climber Valtournenche, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Attilio Bernini M 1959 Italy Exp Doctor Bergamo, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Kurt Diemberger M 1932 Austria Climber Monte San Pietro, Italy & Salzburg, Austria Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Sergio Gabbio M 1956 Italy Climber Alagna Valsesia, Vercelli, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Maurizio Gallo M 1952 Italy Member Padua, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Marino Giacometti M 1951 Italy Leader Albino, Bergamo, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Oswald Santin M 1962 Italy Climber Vipiteno, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ugo Savadri M 1953 Italy BC Manager Padua, Italy Psychologist Details Other expeditions
Giampietro Verza M 1956 Italy Climber Sesto San Giovanni, Milano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO89301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 64:234-236 (1990) -
PUMO89301 MM - - - 131:5 (Jan 1990) -
PUMO89301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199023404/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Post-Monsoon-Ascents-and-Attempt - - -