Pumori | 1989 SW Ridge

A USA expedition to Pumori in 1989 via SW Ridge, led by Shari Kearney. Summit reached on 25th April 1989. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 829
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO89101
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1989
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Shari Kearney
Sponsor American Pumori Expedition 1989
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 41st,42nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-03-28
Summit Date 1989-04-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 28
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Lobuche before Pumori
Campsites BC(28/03,5300m),C1(10/04,6000m),C2(18/04,6200m),C3(23/04,6490m),Smt(25,28/04)
Route Notes BC due west of Kalapattar C1 on SW Ridge C2 on SW Ridge (normal site) C3 on SW Ridge (normal site). Lower part of route not normal way: arrived in snowstorm and couldn't see well. "Weather was so good for us, but winds so bad up high" in April. We climbed the SW Ridge. Through a series of events, we ended at a base camp on the west side of Kalapatar, and so may have pioneered a new route on the first 2000 ft. From base camp we worked around the right of the triangular glacier and up a thousand vertical feet to the Kalapattar ridge through sections of rock and 60-degree to 70-degree ice. C1 was placed on April 7 at 19,600 ft on the first bit of flat ground. The route was unusually dry this season. We encountered mostly loose rock and mushroom ice between C1 and C2. The latter was occupied on April 13 at 20,400 ft. We intersected the regular route there. We traversed under rock towers through very loose rock and along sun-cupped ice and water ice before moving vertically onto better rock back to the ridge. We placed C3 at 21,500 ft on April 23. The route was littered with old fixed rope and hardware, some of which we cleaned. On April 25, Lucy Smith, Carol Snetsinger and Kathy Phibbs summited. Three days later, Diane Taliaferro and I also reached the summit. Shari Kearney, National Outdoor Leadership School Source from American Alpine Journal, 1990, pg 234
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451071
Year 1989
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Susan Ann (Sue) Giller F 1946 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Computer programmer Details Other expeditions
Sharon (Shari) Kearney F 1952 USA Leader Lander, Wyoming Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Steve Lawrence M 1954 USA Climber Naro Moru, Kenya Director of outdoor leadership school Details Other expeditions
Kathy Phibbs F 1957 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Lucylle (Lucy) Smith F 1951 USA Climber Lander, Wyoming Instructor (National Outdoor Leadership School) Details Other expeditions
Carol Jean Snetsinger F 1961 USA Climber Lander, Wyoming Instructor at outdoor leadership school Details Other expeditions
Diane Taliaferro F 1961 USA Climber Lander, Wyoming Teacher & instructor at outdoor leadership school Details Other expeditions
Rebella Lynne Wolfe F 1961 USA Climber Lander, Wyoming Teacher & instructor at outdoor leadership school Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO89101 AAJ Kearney, Shari - - 64:234 (1990) -
PUMO89101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199023403/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Womens-Expedition - - -