Pumori | 1988 SW Ridge

A USA expedition to Pumori in 1988 via SW Ridge, led by John Tuckey. Summit reached on 18th April 1988. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 83
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO88101
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1988
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders John Tuckey
Sponsor American Pumori Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 34th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1988-04-04
Summit Date 1988-04-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 14
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/04,5400m),C1(11/04,5800m),C2(12/04,6100m),C3(13/04,6250m),Bivseries(14-17/04),Biv(18/04,7120m),Smt(18/04)
Route Notes BC above Gorak Shep (higher and about 1 and 1/2 minute of it) C1 at 5800m on ridge above Kalapattar C2 just before horizontal snow ridge on SW Ridge C3 at 6250m at east side of the rock towers Biv series on ridge Biv on ridge in ice cave. Both White and Kopal stopped climbing early, both not feeling strong as were other two. White had chest infection and Kopal "burned out" on this mountain, went with sirdar to climb Pokalde. Kopal left BC 14th Apr while others remained at BC. 4 members started up on 11th Apr, 12th on up individually to start of ice on horizontal ridge while others, too slow and less competent, turned back from the climb after all 4 had established C2 on 12th. 13th 2 members (Leibundgut and Tuckey) on up while Kopal and White down. Leibundgut and Tuckey crossed ridge, slept on ledge that night in tent. 14th around the rock, followed the ridge and what altitude reached don't know that night; same for following 2 nights. Had bad fire in tent last night it was used and 17th slept in snow cave at least at 22,000 ft on SW Ridge. 18th to top, took photo before top, continued to true top and more photos. Descended about 150 ft when Leibundgut said dizzy, not well, needed help. Decided to go down E Ridge, which seemed easier with same ropes fixed by Indonesians. Soon Leibundgut completely disoriented re-climbing techniques; darkness soon came and wind blew up (as much as 60 mph). Best to dig in which only Tuckey did and during pause in doing this, Leibundgut was gone and his pack on him gone but ice axe still planted and now very dark. Tuckey slept in ice cave and down to BC on 19th. Leibundgut's girl friend and her sister were at BC when Tuckey came back alone.
Accidents Tuckey frostbite; White chest infection; both White and Kopal stopped climbing early as both not feeling well; Leibundgut fatal fall
Achievement -
Agency Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450698
Year 1988
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Randall Kopal M 1948 USA Climber Eldorado Springs, Colorado Building contractor Details Other expeditions
Chris Leibundgut M 1960 USA Climber Wasilla, Alaska Carpenter Details Other expeditions
John Tuckey M 1950 USA Leader Girdwood, Alaska Alpine guide & carpenter Details Other expeditions
Douglas White M 1960 USA Climber Anchorage, Alaska Social worker Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO88101 AAJ Tuckey, John - - 63:204-205 (1989) -
PUMO88101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198920402/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -