Pumori | 1986 SW Ridge

A USA expedition to Pumori in 1986 via SW Ridge, led by Todd Bibler. Summit reached on 5th December 1986. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 242
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO86402
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1986
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 E Face
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Todd Bibler
Sponsor American Pumori Expedition Winter 1986
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 27th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-11-25
Summit Date 1986-12-05
Summit Time 1115
Summit Days 10
Total Days 12
Termination Date 1986-12-07
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/11,5200m),Biv1(01/12,5900m),Biv2(04/12,6080m),Smt(05/12)
Route Notes BC at Gorak Shep Biv1 on SW Ridge Biv2 on East Face. 29th Nov carried load to SW Ridge and 1 Dec camped on this ridge at 5900m. 2 Dec to BC because Mike sick. Todd then decided he could solo East Face, which Japanese had just finished climbing. 4 Dec Bibler started up face without gear had left at SW Ridge. Had tent sleeping bag but no rope. No wind at all (slept with door of tent open). 5 Dec to summit and back to BC. Dimitri still sick and left BC 6 Dec (an Everest LO had come to BC and said since mountain had been climbed by face, they could not attempt summit via ridge). 7 Dec Bibler up ridge to retrieve gear at 5900m (and at 6100m which Bibler had dumped on 2 Dec before descent that day).
Accidents Dimitri stomach trouble
Achievement 2nd solo ascent
Agency Trekking & Expedition Services (TES)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450196
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Todd Douglas Bibler M 1952 USA Leader Boulder, Colorado Tent designer Details Other expeditions
Michael Dimitri M 1958 USA Climber Ridgefield, Connecticut Contractor, commercial buildings Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO86402 AAJ Bibler, Todd - - 61:238-239 (1987) -
PUMO86402 MM - - - 116:9 (Jul 1987) -
PUMO86402 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723804/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Winter-Ascent - - -