Pumori | 1986 SW Ridge
A USA expedition to Pumori in 1986 via SW Ridge, led by Todd Bibler. Summit reached on 5th December 1986. 2 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 242 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | PUMO86402 |
| Peak ID | PUMO |
| Year | 1986 |
| Season | 4 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | E Face |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Todd Bibler |
| Sponsor | American Pumori Expedition Winter 1986 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | True |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | 27th |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1986-11-25 |
| Summit Date | 1986-12-05 |
| Summit Time | 1115 |
| Summit Days | 10 |
| Total Days | 12 |
| Termination Date | 1986-12-07 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7138 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 2 |
| Summit Members | 1 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 1 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(25/11,5200m),Biv1(01/12,5900m),Biv2(04/12,6080m),Smt(05/12) |
| Route Notes | BC at Gorak Shep Biv1 on SW Ridge Biv2 on East Face. 29th Nov carried load to SW Ridge and 1 Dec camped on this ridge at 5900m. 2 Dec to BC because Mike sick. Todd then decided he could solo East Face, which Japanese had just finished climbing. 4 Dec Bibler started up face without gear had left at SW Ridge. Had tent sleeping bag but no rope. No wind at all (slept with door of tent open). 5 Dec to summit and back to BC. Dimitri still sick and left BC 6 Dec (an Everest LO had come to BC and said since mountain had been climbed by face, they could not attempt summit via ridge). 7 Dec Bibler up ridge to retrieve gear at 5900m (and at 6100m which Bibler had dumped on 2 Dec before descent that day). |
| Accidents | Dimitri stomach trouble |
| Achievement | 2nd solo ascent |
| Agency | Trekking & Expedition Services (TES) |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450196 |
| Year | 1986 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge |
Members
2 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Todd Douglas Bibler | M | 1952 | USA | Leader | Boulder, Colorado | Tent designer | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael Dimitri | M | 1958 | USA | Climber | Ridgefield, Connecticut | Contractor, commercial buildings | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PUMO86402 | AAJ | Bibler, Todd | - | - | 61:238-239 (1987) | - |
| PUMO86402 | MM | - | - | - | 116:9 (Jul 1987) | - |
| PUMO86402 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723804/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Winter-Ascent | - | - | - |