Pumori | 1986 E Face

A Japan expedition to Pumori in 1986 via E Face, led by Kazuyuki Takahashi. Summit reached on 3rd December 1986. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	245
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	PUMO86401
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1986
Season	4
Host Country	1
Route 1	E Face
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Japan
Leaders	Kazuyuki Takahashi
Sponsor	Kamoshika Dojin Winter Pumori
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	26th
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	1986-11-24
Summit Date	1986-12-03
Summit Time	-
Summit Days	9
Total Days	11
Termination Date	1986-12-05
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	7138
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	0
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	3
Summit Members	2
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	1
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	Climbed Island Peak (Sasahara and Takahashi) and Mera Peak (Aota)
Campsites	BC(24/11),ABC(30/11,5400m),Biv1(01/12,6150m),Biv2(02/12,6600m),Smt(03/12)
Route Notes	BC at east side of small lake southeast of point 5527m. First tried rock band to 5800 or 5900m and then abandoned this line as too steep, so descended 200m to line actually followed which was all ice climbing. This mixture meant lost time. Had planned only 1 bivouac at 6600m. Ice climbing was sometimes dangerous from avalanche. Knife ridge in area of 1st bivouac; also there was rock falling. This route for 2-3 days rapid alpine-style ascent. 3rd Dec went to summit and back to 2nd bivouac. 4th Dec to BC at Gorak Shep. Descent route slight variation because seemed little easier. Takashi caught cold on Island Peak and did not go to Pumori.
Accidents	None
Achievement	1st ascent of East Face
Agency	Ama Dablam Trekking
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	-
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2450194
Year	1986
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	e face

Members

Field	Value
ID	20007
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO86401
Member ID	02
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1986
Season	4
First Name	Hiroshi
Last Name	Aota
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1958
Calculated Age	28
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Nou-machi, Niigata, Japan
Occupation	Professional alpinist
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7138
Summit Date 1	1986-12-03
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	26
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2434123
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	hiroshi aota
Year of Birth	1958
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	28
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	20008
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO86401
Member ID	03
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1986
Season	4
First Name	Yoshiki
Last Name	Sasahara
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1958
Calculated Age	28
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Tokyo, Japan
Occupation	Salesman, sports equipment
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7138
Summit Date 1	1986-12-03
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	26
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2434351
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	yoshiki sasahara
Year of Birth	1958
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	28
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	20009
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO86401
Member ID	01
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1986
Season	4
First Name	Kazuyuki
Last Name	Takahashi
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1943
Calculated Age	43
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Leader
Residence	Tokyo, Japan
Occupation	Businessman
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	True
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	True
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	10
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	Takahashi caught cold on Island Peak and did not go to Pumori
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2428742
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	kazuyuki takahashi
Year of Birth	1943
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	43
Role	Leader

3 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Hiroshi Aota	M	1958	Japan	Climber	Nou-machi, Niigata, Japan	Professional alpinist	Details Other expeditions
Yoshiki Sasahara	M	1958	Japan	Climber	Tokyo, Japan	Salesman, sports equipment	Details Other expeditions
Kazuyuki Takahashi	M	1943	Japan	Leader	Tokyo, Japan	Businessman	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	254
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	PUMO86401
Reference ID	01
Year	1986
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1987
Language	-
Citation	61:238 (1987)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	4326
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	PUMO86401
Reference ID	02
Year	1986
Type	3
Journal	MM
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1987
Language	-
Citation	116:9 (Jul 1987)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	6685
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	PUMO86401
Reference ID	03
Year	1986
Type	3
Journal	IWA
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1987
Language	Japanese w/English summary
Citation	:269 (1987)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	6895
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	PUMO86401
Reference ID	04
Year	1986
Type	3
Journal	IWA
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1987
Language	Japanese
Citation	:58 (1987)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	12329
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	PUMO86401
Reference ID	05
Year	1986
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723803/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Winter-Ascent-via-East-Face
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
PUMO86401	AAJ	Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth	-	-	61:238 (1987)	-
PUMO86401	MM	-	-	-	116:9 (Jul 1987)	-
PUMO86401	IWA	-	-	-	:269 (1987)	-
PUMO86401	IWA	-	-	-	:58 (1987)	-
PUMO86401	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723803/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Winter-Ascent-via-East-Face	-	-	-