Pumori | 1986 S Face up; SW Ridge-S Ridge down

A UK expedition to Pumori in 1986 via S Face up; SW Ridge-S Ridge down, led by Sandy Allan. Summit reached on 19th October 1986. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 920
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO86303
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face up; SW Ridge-S Ridge down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Sandy Allan
Sponsor American-British Pumori S Ridge Expedition 1986
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 25th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-10-09
Summit Date 1986-10-19
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 10
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/10,5100m),Biv1(14/10,5600m),Biv2(15/10,5850m),Biv3(16/10,6100m),Biv4(17/10,6600m),Biv5(18/10,7000m),Smt(19/10)
Route Notes BC at 5100m on east side of Kalapattar Biv5 at 7000m right below summit on cornice. 1st to 3rd biv sites Scottish grade 5 steep ice. Spindrift avalanches all the time in this section funnelled down couloir and were very dangerous. Did climb true alpine-style except for 100m of 8m rope. Started off with bivy tent but it fell off after 1st biv so used snow caves or just platforms. Very pleased with climbing this difficult route both up and down and think it must be new ascent and descent routes (confusion about who has been exactly where on past expeditions). Allan and Allen left BC 22 Oct. Other 2 members to make their own bid but not likely to repeat same route [retreated from 6000m due to high winds].
Accidents None at all up to Oct 22; none later
Achievement Probably new routes up and down
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450149
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face up; sw ridge-s ridge down

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alexander Roderick (Sandy) Allan M 1955 UK Leader Fochabers, Moray, Scotland Alpine guide & extreme-locations technician Details Other expeditions
Richard Frank (Rick) Allen M 1954 UK Climber Aberdeen, Scotland Petroleum engineer Details Other expeditions
Morris Kittleman M 1959 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Manager of retail tree nursery Details Other expeditions
David Saiget M 1958 USA Climber Portland, Oregon - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO86303 AAJ Allan, Sandy - - 61:236-238 (1987) -
PUMO86303 AJ Allan, Sandy Pumori - The Scottish Route - 93:48-50 (1988-1989) -
PUMO86303 MM - - - 113:8 (Jan 1987) -
PUMO86303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723602/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-South-Face - - -
PUMO86303 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1988-89_files/AJ%201988%2048-50%20Allan%20Pumori.pdf - - -