Pumori | 1986 SW Ridge

A New Zealand expedition to Pumori in 1986 via SW Ridge, led by John Roberts. Summit reached on 24th October 1986. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 923
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO86301
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders John Roberts
Sponsor New Zealand Pumori Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-09-16
Summit Date 1986-10-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 38
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6550m due to exhaustion
High Point (m) 6550
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 1000
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/09,5300m),C1(29/09,5950m),C2(14/10,6250m),xxx(24-26/10,6550m)
Route Notes BC at 5300m on west side of SW ridge (west of point 5545 on east side of Changri Shar Glacier) C1 at 5950m at snow shelf C2 at 6250m on top of snow shelf High point at 6550m at SW Ridge. Route went under glacier shelf on west side of SW Ridge to a west spur of SW Ridge. After established BC "crowded around acclimatizing." After made C1, ferried loads to stock it and put fixed line to snow rib at 20,000 ft. 15th-16th route made across SW Ridge. Next week put in more fixed line above C2 and spent next 9 days fixing rope on difficult rock and ice. By then too exhausted to continue on up to upper snow fields above snow ramp. Should have changed style of climb to fast alpine-style ascent instead of fixing rope up. 3000 feet total - had done all difficult rock climbing. Brailsford never reached BC because of severe high alitude sickness. MacDonald got absessed tooth and was out of action for 2 weeks (had tooth pulled at Pheriche). Swenson - 4 Nov Roberts "flipped out" on the climb. Hadn't realized how big the Himalaya are: froze on them and had to be helped down the ropes on 26 and 27 Oct. This used up other members remaining strength.
Accidents Brailsford never reached BC because of severe high altitude sickness; MacDonald absessed tooth and was out of action for 2 weeks
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450154
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Peter John Brailsford M 1960 New Zealand Climber Mt. Cook, New Zealand Alpine & skiing guide Details Other expeditions
Kevin James Conaglen M 1960 New Zealand Climber New Plymouth, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Stephen Francis MacDonald M 1957 Australia Climber Coledale, NSW, Australia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
John Roberts M 1962 New Zealand Leader Lower Hutt, New Zealand Instructor (Outdoor Pursuits Centre of NZ) Details Other expeditions
Keith Nels Swenson M 1951 USA Climber Ketchum, Idaho River guide Details Other expeditions
Matthew West Wilkinson M 1967 New Zealand BC Manager Christchurch, New Zealand Park assistant Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO86301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:238 (1987) -
PUMO86301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723801/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Southwest-Ridge-Attempt - - -