Pumori | 1985 SE Face

A Spain expedition to Pumori in 1985 via SE Face, led by Pere Rodes Munoz. Summit reached on 9th May 1985. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 161
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO85102
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1985
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Pere Rodes Munoz
Sponsor Expedicio Gracia Himalaia to Pumori
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 24th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1985-04-19
Summit Date 1985-05-09
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 20
Total Days 25
Termination Date 1985-05-14
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/05,5350m),C1(03/05,6300m),Smt(09/05)
Route Notes BC near one of many small lakes at "7" of point 5327m southeast of Pumori C1 on SE Face in crevasse by all 4 members. Difficulties: To reach Col and on ridge above Col which very sharp smooth. 27 April put ropes to 6200m and then stayed in BC with daily snowfall. On 26th tried but snowing and no visability. Probably followed South Korean route (found their fixed ropes). 4 May tried one way through crevasses and seracs and fixed 90m rope and down to BC. 8 May again up but only 3 members to summit push (not Solans Martinez because very dangerous above C1). Above C1 very steep hard ice requiring lot of ice pitons and rope so shifted route to right side of SE Face and via a col. 12 hours climb from C1 to top, 6 hours from col at about 6500m. Germans 1962 also went to this col. Biv 6600m (above Col) on 9 May in ice cave 9 hours. 10 May cleared C1 and reached BC. Not a truly new route, but same varieties of earlier routes probably. Banskota, Tourism - 14 May 85 Rodes, Jaume Matas Grau and Joan Alarecon summit from SE Face 4:00 pm 9 May - cloudy, stayed 2 hours, flags of Nepal, Catalonese and Gracia and took photos. Started from C1 4:00 am, bived at 6600m and C1 at 8:00 am 10 May and arrived BC same afternoon. Woman member reached 6400m. Leave BC 14 May.
Accidents None; bivouac very cold but stayed awake and moving to prevent frostbite
Achievement 1st Spanish ascent
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449620
Year 1985
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Joan Manuel Alarcon Castillon M 1947 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Department store worker Details Other expeditions
Jaume Matas Grau M 1950 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Teacher, primary school Details Other expeditions
Pere Rodes Munoz M 1954 Spain Leader Barcelona, Spain Medical assistant (male nurse) Details Other expeditions
Maria Mercedes Solans Martinez F 1959 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Nurse Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO85102 AAJ Matas, Jaume - - 60:232 (1986) -
PUMO85102 MM - - - 105:10 (Sep 1985) -
PUMO85102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198623203/Asia-Nepal-Pumori - - -