Pumori | 1983 SE Buttress on S(E) Face

A USA expedition to Pumori in 1983 via SE Buttress on S(E) Face, led by Jeff Lowe. Summit reached on 18th December 1983. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1512
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO83401
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1983
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Buttress on S(E) Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Jeff Lowe
Sponsor Colorado Nuptse Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 17th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-12-06
Summit Date 1983-12-18
Summit Time 1630
Summit Days 12
Total Days 14
Termination Date 1983-12-20
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Had permit for Nuptse (NUPT-834-01)
Campsites BC(06/12,5300m),Biv1(15/12,5640m),Biv2(16/12,6250m),Biv3(17/12,6615m),Smt(18/12)
Route Notes Jeff reached there in solo ascent. Reached top 4:30 pm (from 3rd biv at 9:00 am) and back to 3rd biv about midnight in bright moonlight. Returned to BC on 19th. Wiggins tried gully on face to 18,500 ft and would have carried on up if hadn't become ill for second time. Did not do route originally planned: wind so strong it was blowing rock off the ridges and so considerable rockfall. Had planned to climb deep gully to left of buttress actually climbed. Scottish Grade 4 and a little [Grade 5] ice climbing with hardest about 22,600 ft and some had between 20,500 and 21,000 ft. Wiggins altitude illness; on 8th he come down to Pheriche where Lowe recovering from cold. Returned to mountain and started up on 19th on originally planned route, got to 18,500 ft fixing rope, but got sick again that night and had to quit. Left Pumori BC in rush. No accidents. Had permit for Nuptse but with Wiggins sick they made no attempt. Dec 8 Wiggins developed pulmonary edema and evacuated to Namche by Lowe who returned to BC and made his climb. Wiggins returned to BC Dec 16 and again on 20th developed pulmonary edema. Planned expedition to Nuptse therefore cancelled.
Accidents Wiggins altitude illness: on 8th down to Pheriche where Lowe recovering from cold, returned to mtn and started up on 19th original planned route, got to 18,500 ft fixing rope, but got sick again that night
Achievement 1st solo ascent
Agency Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449110
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se buttress on s(e) face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jeff Lowe M 1950 USA Leader Louisville, Colorado Distributor of mountaineering gear Details Other expeditions
Christopher Earl Wiggins M 1957 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO83401 AAJ Lowe, Jeff - - 58:242 (1984) -
PUMO83401 MM - - - 97:10 (May 1984) -
PUMO83401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198424201/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-South-Face-Solo-Winter-Ascent - - -