Pumori | 1983 E Face-NE Ridge

A USA expedition to Pumori in 1983 via E Face-NE Ridge, led by Donald McIntyre. Summit reached on 28th April 1983. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1643
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO83101
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1983
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Donald McIntyre
Sponsor 1983 Inner Asia Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-04-18
Summit Date 1983-04-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 10
Total Days 15
Termination Date 1983-05-03
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6190m due to ice blocks coming down
High Point (m) 6190
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/04,5275m),ABC(21/04,5485m),C1(26/04,5945m),xxx(28/04,6190m)
Route Notes C1 was nailed to rock and had to push snow underneath to prop it up. Kept getting ice blocks coming down; one hit Dailey's pack and carried it off and down 1000 ft (found later). Huge avalanche going across route and almost hit Dailey. General consensus was "we ought to get hell out of there" he said. Technical difficulties and avalanches meant ran out of rigid fixed time alloted. Must be done very quickly or not at all. Could have gone to S Ridge if had had more time.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448876
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face-ne ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jon Babcock M 1942 USA Climber Missoula, Montana President, home-building company Details Other expeditions
David A. Dailey M 1947 USA Climber Edmonds, Washington High school teacher Details Other expeditions
Diana C. Dailey F 1943 USA Climber Edmonds, Washington High school mathematics teacher Details Other expeditions
Craig Linford M 1957 USA Climbing Leader Berkeley, California Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Donald D. (Don) McIntyre M 1946 USA Leader Martinez, California US government federation investigation Details Other expeditions
Paul A. Stevenson M 1955 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Stockbroker Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO83101 AAJ McIntyre, Donald D. - - 58:241 (1984) -
PUMO83101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198424102/Asia-Nepal-Pumori - - -