Pumori | 1982 W Face

A USA expedition to Pumori in 1982 via W Face, led by Steve Van Meter. Summit reached on 7th October 1982. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1537
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO82302
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Steve Van Meter
Sponsor 1982 American Himalayan Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-10-03
Summit Date 1982-10-07
Summit Time -
Summit Days 4
Total Days 8
Termination Date 1982-10-11
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5800m due to illnesses
High Point (m) 5800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/10,5250m),Dep(07/10,5800m),xxx
Route Notes Van Meter got sick at Jorsale for first time and had diarrhea for 10 days and then at BC section dehydration and then got wrenching cough. BC established on 3 Oct at 17,200 to 17,300 ft. Dump at 19,000ft (5800m) on 7th Oct = highest point reached by both members. 10th Oct left BC for climb but hour out of BC below dump, Van Meter's health drove him back down. Had gone more directly towards W Face than Japanese had done; were not actually yet on face. Nima Sherpa went up with McCullough to clear dump after Van Meter dropped out, only time he went above BC. McCullough and Van Meter wants to come to Pumori with 2 others in 1985; could not trust Schenck after "same things he did" on way to BC. Ale, Tourism - 12 Oct 82 Schenck left because of personal differences between Schenck and others, Van Meter writes. BC 2 Oct C1 9 Oct - 5920m Jeb Schenck - 10 Oct 82 At Thyangboche Van Meter and other member told Schenck he was not trusted and no longer part of expedition. Jeb never even got to BC. Bobby Chettri, Mountain Travel - 17 Sept 82 Pumori expedition left today. Plan to climb up West Face and descend via NW Ridge = Traverse says Sharma of Tourism. Have cancelled plans to attempt Kusum Kangru also (no funds). Steve Van Meter - 7 Sept 82 Route = West Face or NW Ridge if can get permit for it - NW Ridge. Leave 17 Sept by road to Lamosangu or Kirantichap. Arrive BC 4 Oct at latest maybe 1 Oct on Changri Shar Glacier southwest of Pumori at about 5400m. Alpine ascent carrying 1 tent and 4 ropes. 5 days climbing if on face, don't know how many days if on ridge. No Sherpas above BC. Maybe medical oxygen (none for climb). Return mid-November after attempt on Kusum Kangru except Tom McCullough who flies from Lukla 1 or 2 Nov. 1982 American Himalaya Expedition
Accidents No accidents or frostbites
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448672
Year 1982
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Thomas E. (Tom) McCullough M 1949 USA Climber Albuquerque, New Mexico Medical student Details Other expeditions
John (Jeb) Schenck M 1950 USA Climber Thermopolis, Wyoming High school teacher of photography and science Details Other expeditions
R. Steven (Steve) Van Meter M 1955 USA Leader San Bernardino, California Construction superintendant & University student of accounting Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.