Pumori | 1980 SE Face (to 5850m)

A Italy expedition to Pumori in 1980 via SE Face (to 5850m), led by Tony Klingendrath. Summit reached on 25th October 1980. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1898
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO80302
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1980
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face (to 5850m)
Route 2 S Face Spur (to 6600m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Tony Klingendrath
Sponsor Italian Pumori Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1980-10-12
Summit Date 1980-10-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 13
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6600m due to avalanching
High Point (m) 6600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/10),C1(15/10,5850),xxx(25/10,6600m)
Route Notes Klingendrath - 1 Nov 80 BC established at 12 Oct. Tried first direct route and put 1 camp 5850m and day after 3 friends decided to return to Italy (1 sick, others don't feel good and other problems), so leaves only Giberna and Klingendrath for SE Face. After 2 days then go up again, but tent destroyed by lot of snow in previous 2 days. Could not find tent and supplies, so returned to BC. Decided to try another route without fixed rope in pure alpine-style. Tried snow spur on East Face, not normal route however. Climbed free climbing 45 to 60 degrees slope 24 Oct and biv about 6200m. 25 Oct steeper and roped up, alternating lead, expect reach top in 2 days. At 6600m avalanche of powder snow and all came away: fell 20m with avalanche. Tony covered with snow very near crevasse and wall if Tony hadn't stopped at edge of crevasse, both 1000m further down. Other fell 30m and stopped by rope to Tony and felt pain in his back. Other could not climb back up to Tony because pain and deep snow and thought Tony dead in crevasses, so descended alone. Tony after 2 hours able get out of avalanche snow and descend. Both reached BC: Giberna at 7:00 pm and Tony at 9:00 pm. Climb finished. Klingendrath - 27 Sept 80 Route = South Face direct, not same as French 1972 which was 1/2 on face on East or SE Ridge. BC at Gorak Shep. No fixed camps, little fixed rope and no Sherpas above BC. Leave KTM 2 or 3 Oct by air to Lukla (they hope) and are week to BC. From BC to top and back = 20 days; including acclimatization = 25 days.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447958
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face (to 5850m)

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Roberta Borghesi M 1954 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Has doctorate in pharmacology, is now studying in University Details Other expeditions
Luciano Cergol M 1957 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Installs home-heating equipment Details Other expeditions
Franco DeFachinetti M 1939 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Customs-clearing agent Details Other expeditions
Roberto Giberna M 1949 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Tony Klingendrath M 1955 Italy Leader Trieste, Italy University student of geology Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO80302 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:254 (1981) -
PUMO80302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125403/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Attempt - - -