Pumori | 1980 SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Pumori in 1980 via SW Ridge, led by Yasuo Iwazoe. Summit reached on 21st October 1980. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	1878
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	PUMO80301
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1980
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	SW Ridge
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Japan
Leaders	Yasuo Iwazoe
Sponsor	G Ascent Club Pumori Expedition
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	12th
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	1980-09-12
Summit Date	1980-10-21
Summit Time	1600
Summit Days	39
Total Days	0
Termination Date	-
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	7138
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	3
Fixed Rope (m)	2200
Total Members	8
Summit Members	3
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	0
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	True
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(12/09,5300m),C1(15/09,5675m),C2(27/09,6200m),C3(12/10,6500m),Smt(21/10)
Route Notes	Sugawara & Toya - 29 Oct 80 Hamada, Sugawara and Mizoguchi reached top on 21 Oct 4:00 pm. Started from C3 at 8:00 am, 20 mins on top in very strong wind. That nights bivouac at 7000m in snowholes. Reached on 22 Oct C3 at 9:00 am and BC at 4:00 pm same day. Sugawara some frozen toes but will be Ok. Very difficult climb and bad weather. Took long because snow deep and soft, cold temperature and wind. Normal route = South Ridge. Later in Oct on summit than leader planned because snow ridge and snow face in bad condition. Needed 2200m fixed rope. From C2 to C3 very difficult snow ridge, snow face, rock face to snow ridge. 1st attack by 4 members on 19th Oct by Iwazoe, Toya, Koga and Mizoguchi. Very strong wind reached 7000m biv point (snowhole on snow face) of 21 Oct and stayed there night of 18th Oct. 20 Oct 2nd attack by Iwazoe, Koga and Mizoguchi; up only 4 pitches to 7100m; again strong winds and returned to C3. 21 Oct new team to top and down to biv. All members came to KTM and all Ok. Leave Nepal after 1 week. No accidents or avalanche and only 1 with frostbite No oxygen used; no other mountains [climbed] Yasao Iwazoe - 13 Aug 80 All in KTM. 1st party arrived 1 Aug and 2nd party 8 Aug Leave KTM 18 Aug by road to Lamosangu, arrive BC after 14 days. 2 weeks acclimatization climbing from BC. Route = SW Ridge, same as 1978 Japan expedition. Pumori very famous mountain and our purpose all members get to top with no Sherpas. No Sherpas above BC and no oxygen. BC at 5200m above due west of point 5527m on Schneider map. C1 5800m C2 6200m C3 6500m Dump 6800m Most difficult part from C2 to dump, saw-tooth ridge, some blue ice, some rock. Summit 8-14 Oct - hope all members summit. GAC Pumori Expedition (G Ascent Club - G = Giant peaks)
Accidents	-
Achievement	-
Agency	-
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	-
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2447954
Year	1980
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	sw ridge

Members

Field	Value
ID	19925
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO80301
Member ID	01
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Yasuo
Last Name	Iwazoe
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1947
Calculated Age	32
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Leader
Residence	Tokyo, Japan
Occupation	Employee Company Staff
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	7100
Summit Date 1	1980-10-20
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	3
HCN	0
Checksum	2430556
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	yasuo iwazoe
Year of Birth	1947
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	33
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	19926
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO80301
Member ID	08
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Takayuki
Last Name	Toya
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1949
Calculated Age	30
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Yokohama, Japan
Occupation	Employee Company Staff
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	7000
Summit Date 1	1980-10-19
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	3
HCN	0
Checksum	2431290
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	takayuki toya
Year of Birth	1949
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	31
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	19927
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO80301
Member ID	03
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Shuichi
Last Name	Koga
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1951
Calculated Age	29
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Yokohama, Japan
Occupation	Employee Company Staff
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	7100
Summit Date 1	1980-10-20
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	3
HCN	0
Checksum	2431869
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	shuichi koga
Year of Birth	1951
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	29
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	19928
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO80301
Member ID	02
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Ryoichi
Last Name	Hamada
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1953
Calculated Age	26
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Tokyo, Japan
Occupation	Employee Company Staff
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7138
Summit Date 1	1980-10-21
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1600
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	12
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2432770
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	ryoichi hamada
Year of Birth	1953
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	27
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	19929
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO80301
Member ID	07
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Michio
Last Name	Sugawara
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1952
Calculated Age	28
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Tokyo, Japan
Occupation	Employee Company Staff
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7138
Summit Date 1	1980-10-21
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1600
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	12
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2432304
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	michio sugawara
Year of Birth	1952
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	28
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	19930
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO80301
Member ID	04
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Hiroyuki
Last Name	Mizoguchi
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1955
Calculated Age	25
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Nagareyama, Chiba, Japan
Occupation	College student
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7138
Summit Date 1	1980-10-21
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1600
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	12
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2433283
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	hiroyuki mizoguchi
Year of Birth	1955
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	25
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	19931
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO80301
Member ID	05
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Michiko
Last Name	Odera-Othoshi
Sex	F
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1954
Calculated Age	26
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Fujimi, Saitama, Japan
Occupation	Employee Company Staff
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2432851
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	michiko odera-othoshi
Year of Birth	1954
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	26
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	19932
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO80301
Member ID	06
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1980
Season	3
First Name	Junichi
Last Name	Shiota
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1950
Calculated Age	30
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan
Occupation	Physician
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2431433
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	junichi shiota
Year of Birth	1950
Year	1980
Age at Expedition	30
Role	Member

8 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Yasuo Iwazoe	M	1947	Japan	Leader	Tokyo, Japan	Employee Company Staff	Details Other expeditions
Takayuki Toya	M	1949	Japan	Climber	Yokohama, Japan	Employee Company Staff	Details Other expeditions
Shuichi Koga	M	1951	Japan	Climber	Yokohama, Japan	Employee Company Staff	Details Other expeditions
Ryoichi Hamada	M	1953	Japan	Climber	Tokyo, Japan	Employee Company Staff	Details Other expeditions
Michio Sugawara	M	1952	Japan	Climber	Tokyo, Japan	Employee Company Staff	Details Other expeditions
Hiroyuki Mizoguchi	M	1955	Japan	Climber	Nagareyama, Chiba, Japan	College student	Details Other expeditions
Michiko Odera-Othoshi	F	1954	Japan	Climber	Fujimi, Saitama, Japan	Employee Company Staff	Details Other expeditions
Junichi Shiota	M	1950	Japan	Climber	Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan	Physician	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	1815
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	PUMO80301
Reference ID	01
Year	1980
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Cheney, Michael J.
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1981
Language	-
Citation	55:254-255 (1981)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	3911
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	PUMO80301
Reference ID	02
Year	1980
Type	3
Journal	MM
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1981
Language	-
Citation	77:11 (Jan 1981)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	12927
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	PUMO80301
Reference ID	03
Year	1980
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125404/Asia-Nepal-Pumori
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
PUMO80301	AAJ	Cheney, Michael J.	-	-	55:254-255 (1981)	-
PUMO80301	MM	-	-	-	77:11 (Jan 1981)	-
PUMO80301	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125404/Asia-Nepal-Pumori	-	-	-