Pumori | 1978 SW Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Pumori in 1978 via SW Ridge, led by Romolo Nottaris. Summit reached on 18th October 1978. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2156
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO78301
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Romolo Nottaris
Sponsor Mountaineering Expedition of Ticino Canton to Pumori
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 9th-11th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy, USA
Approach Lamosangu->Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1978-10-03
Summit Date 1978-10-18
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 15
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 8
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 9
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/10,5300m),C1(11/10,6120m),C2(16/10,6500m),Smt(18-19,22/10)
Route Notes Bigio (& Nottoris) - 25 Oct 78 Route was SW Ridge. Problem of much snow as on Nuptse. In beginning: 1 day after reached BC had 2 days and waited for it to avalanche (put advance camp lower to get supplies somewhere before could go up). C1 on col 6120m 11 Oct just 10m below arete dug hole in ice for 3 tents: camp on not possible because of wind Opened new way above col. Rock passage of 40 degrees very difficult; made C2 then at 6500m 16 Oct. Had some wind but not terrible. Summit on 18th by Tettamanti, Zimmermann and Sganzini. Left C2 at 3:00 am and on top at noon. Very cold (-25 degrees C) with head lamps and nearly full moonlight. Left so early because such long way. Returned to C2 at 6:00 pm after dark very delicate snow-covered arrete enroute. Next day, Nottaris, Zuend and Pasang Norbu to top. 2-3 hours less time going up because track already made. 22 Oct Korell, Burmann and Ponzio reached summit: on top about 10 am after 3:00 am departure. Others to reach KTM on 31 Oct, now in BC. Nottaris goes to BC tomorrow in helicopter returning. No other attempts for summit. Bigio supposed to be with 3rd group but pulse too fast. No accident, frostbite, etc - no trouble except doctor Chiesa. Ama Dablam and Germans on Everest gave oxygen for doctor when heard of Dr's trouble. Dr. John Dickinson - 25 Oct 78 Chiesa died this morning about 5:30. Never was breathing for himself - effects of high altitude. This is a problem for doctors: there is no one to care for them when they themselves become ill. Bigio (Crystal Hotel) Dr Chiesa from Pheriche 4-5 days ago pulmonary and cerebral edema. Bigio, Chiesa and Nottaris arrived by helicopter. Carried from BC to Pheriche. Never acclimatized but wouldn't go down says Peter. To hospital very ill, unconscious and not breathing by himself. Chiesa was unconscious and unable to breathe without artificial assistance as he was lifted from the helicopter and rushed to hospital here. An American Doctor, Peter Hackett, who spends much time in Nepal studying and caring for cases of high altitude sickness was at the Nepal Rescue Association's rescue post not very far from the Swiss BC. The leader of the expedition, Romolo Nottaris and a member Vittorio Bigio, accompanied Chiesa to KTM, taking turns working the rubber bladder which was pumping air into his lungs. He is suffering from both cerebral and pulmonary edema, which means that body fluids have not been normally eliminated and instead have collected in his head and lungs. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 78 Summit 18 & 19 18 Oct Fausto Tettamanti (deputy leader), Zimmermann, Claude 19 Oct 1) Romolo Nottaris, leader 2) Tiziano Zuend 3) Sirdar Pasang Norbu Sherpa, 25 No news re-further climbing, weather or health. No camp news above BC. Afshar - 14 Sept 78 SW Ridge route of Japan 1973, etc. Technically challenging and this team has almost no expedition and Himalayan experience. All in KTM: Afshar arrive 8 days ago and rest yesterday Leave KTM 16 Sept, by road to Lamosangu and walk 150 porters 8 Sherpas and sirdar above BC BC little higher than Gorak Shep at 5200m 2 or 3 high camps with highest about 6600-6700m 25 days BC -> summit Oxygen medical only
Accidents Dr Chiesa died of high altitude sickness 25 Oct in KTM
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447218
Year 1978
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Darion Afshar M 1951 USA Climber Cstaad, Switzerland Hotel manager Details Other expeditions
Vittorio Bigio M 1940 Italy Climber Courmayeur, Aosta, Italy Hotel manager & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Guido Bumann M 1952 Switzerland Climber Saas-Fee, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Numa Chiesa M 1952 Switzerland Climber Chiasso, Ticino, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Renato Korell M 1948 Switzerland Climber Claro, Ticino, Switzerland Accountant Details Other expeditions
Romolo Nottaris M 1946 Switzerland Leader Bioggio, Ticino, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Nello Pagani M 1946 Switzerland Climber Riva San Vitale, Ticino, Switzerland Government office worker Details Other expeditions
Francesco Ponzio M 1953 Switzerland Climber Rovereto, Trento, Italy Electrician Details Other expeditions
Fausto Sassi M 1938 Switzerland Climber Cureglia, Ticino, Switzerland Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Luca Sganzini M 1952 Switzerland Climber Lugano, Ticino, Switzerland Attorney Details Other expeditions
Fausto Tettamanti M 1936 Switzerland Deputy Leader Bellinzona, Ticino, Switzerland Insurance-claims inspector Details Other expeditions
Claude Zimmermann M 1952 Switzerland Climber Dalpe, Ticino, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Tiziano Zuend M 1958 Switzerland Climber Massagno, Ticino, Switzerland Student of education (studying to become a schoolmaster) Details Other expeditions
Pasang Norbu/Nurbu Sherpa M 1954 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO78301 AAJ Nottaris, Romolo - - 53:268-269 (1979) -
PUMO78301 - Nottaris, Romolo Pumori, Ticinesi in Himalaya del Nepal Arti Grafiche Bernasconi, Agno, Switzerland - N161
PUMO78301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197926802/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-South-Ridge - - -