Pumori | 1978 SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Pumori in 1978 via SW Ridge, led by Teruhiko Nagato. Summit reached on 8th May 1978. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	2136
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	PUMO78101
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1978
Season	1
Host Country	1
Route 1	SW Ridge
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Japan
Leaders	Teruhiko Nagato
Sponsor	Hiroshima Shudo University Himalayan Committee
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	8th
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date	1978-04-02
Summit Date	1978-05-08
Summit Time	1355
Summit Days	36
Total Days	40
Termination Date	1978-05-12
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	7138
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	4
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	6
Summit Members	1
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	7
Summit Hired	1
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(02/04,5200m),C1(07/04,5800m),C2(14/04,6200m),C3(27/04,6520m),C4(02/05,6800m),Smt(08/05)
Route Notes	Nagato - 14 May 78 C4 hit by avalanche on 2 May, but no one injured. Summiters went direct from C3 to top. 1st summit attempt 30 April from C3 but abandoned at 6800m by Tamura and Ito due to bad weather. 2nd attempt to be on 3 May by Yagiri, Tamura and Kunihiro; they in C4 night of 2 May and then after avalanche went down. 3rd attempt 8 May by Tamura and Pemba Lama successful. No accident or frostbite; leader and Tamura arrive KTM 13 May; others at Namche maybe - to KTM 17 May. Route very difficult, steep rock and ice between 6200m and 6800m. SR Sharma - 10 May 78 Summit 8 May at 12:55 pm by Satoshi Tamura and Pemba Lama, 25. Japan and Nepal flag hoisted and had lunch on top return to C3 9 May. Climbing finished. Leave BC 12 May. All well. Nagoto & Yagiri - 14 March 78 Same route as 1973 Japanese, French and Canadian expeditions: SW Ridge. Leave KTM 16 March to Lukla if possible. Stop 3 days acclimatizations at Thyangboche or Pheriche, then BC 29 March at 5300m. Sirdar Annu Sherpa and 6 H-A Sherpas. Oxygen, not for climbing, but for sleeping in BC C3 and C4. 4 camps above BC. C4 = 6800m = attack camp 2 summiters about 1 May 6 Japanese members and Hirotami No doctor Nost difficult part of climb between C2 (6200m) and C4 - mixed rock and ice.
Accidents	-
Achievement	-
Agency	-
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	-
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2447055
Year	1978
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	sw ridge

Members

Field	Value
ID	19904
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO78101
Member ID	01
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1978
Season	1
First Name	Teruhiko
Last Name	Nagato
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1942
Calculated Age	36
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Leader
Residence	Hiroshima, Japan
Occupation	Mountaineering manager
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2428346
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	teruhiko nagato
Year of Birth	1942
Year	1978
Age at Expedition	36
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	19905
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO78101
Member ID	06
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1978
Season	1
First Name	Soichiro
Last Name	Yagiri
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1953
Calculated Age	25
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Hiroshima, Japan
Occupation	Staff member, Hiroshima Shudo University Alpine Club
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	6800
Summit Date 1	1978-05-02
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	3
Summit Term	4
HCN	0
Checksum	2432382
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	soichiro yagiri
Year of Birth	1953
Year	1978
Age at Expedition	25
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	19906
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO78101
Member ID	05
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1978
Season	1
First Name	Kenji
Last Name	Tao
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1955
Calculated Age	22
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Hiroshima, Japan
Occupation	Student of business management, Hiroshima Shudo University
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2433213
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	kenji tao
Year of Birth	1955
Year	1978
Age at Expedition	23
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	19907
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO78101
Member ID	04
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1978
Season	1
First Name	Satoshi
Last Name	Tamura
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1955
Calculated Age	22
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Hiroshima, Japan
Occupation	Student of business management, Hiroshima Shudo University
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7138
Summit Date 1	1978-05-08
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1255
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	8
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2433228
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	satoshi tamura
Year of Birth	1955
Year	1978
Age at Expedition	23
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	19908
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO78101
Member ID	02
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1978
Season	1
First Name	Tomofumi
Last Name	Ito
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1956
Calculated Age	21
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Hiroshima, Japan
Occupation	Student of business management, Hiroshima Shudo University
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	6800
Summit Date 1	1978-04-30
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	3
HCN	0
Checksum	2433587
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	tomofumi ito
Year of Birth	1956
Year	1978
Age at Expedition	22
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	19909
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO78101
Member ID	03
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1978
Season	1
First Name	Meiso
Last Name	Kunihiro
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1956
Calculated Age	21
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Hiroshima, Japan
Occupation	Student of Hiroshima Shudo University sociology
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	6800
Summit Date 1	1978-05-02
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	3
Summit Term	4
HCN	0
Checksum	2433707
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	meiso kunihiro
Year of Birth	1956
Year	1978
Age at Expedition	22
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	19910
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO78101
Member ID	08
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1978
Season	1
First Name	Pemba Lama
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	25
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	7138
Summit Date 1	1978-05-08
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1255
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	8
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	-162
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	pemba lama sherpa
Year of Birth	-
Year	1978
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Hired

Field	Value
ID	27002
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	PUMO78101
Member ID	07
Peak ID	PUMO
Year	1978
Season	1
First Name	Anu
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	Sirdar
Residence	Namche Bazar, Khumbu
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	-101
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	anu sherpa
Year of Birth	-
Year	1978
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Hired

8 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Teruhiko Nagato	M	1942	Japan	Leader	Hiroshima, Japan	Mountaineering manager	Details Other expeditions
Soichiro Yagiri	M	1953	Japan	Climber	Hiroshima, Japan	Staff member, Hiroshima Shudo University Alpine Club	Details Other expeditions
Kenji Tao	M	1955	Japan	Climber	Hiroshima, Japan	Student of business management, Hiroshima Shudo University	Details Other expeditions
Satoshi Tamura	M	1955	Japan	Climber	Hiroshima, Japan	Student of business management, Hiroshima Shudo University	Details Other expeditions
Tomofumi Ito	M	1956	Japan	Climber	Hiroshima, Japan	Student of business management, Hiroshima Shudo University	Details Other expeditions
Meiso Kunihiro	M	1956	Japan	Climber	Hiroshima, Japan	Student of Hiroshima Shudo University sociology	Details Other expeditions
Pemba Lama Sherpa	M	-	Nepal	H-A Worker	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Anu Sherpa	M	-	Nepal	Sirdar	Namche Bazar, Khumbu	-	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	1459
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	PUMO78101
Reference ID	01
Year	1978
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Nagato, Teruhiko
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1979
Language	-
Citation	53:268 (1979)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	1602
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	PUMO78101
Reference ID	02
Year	1978
Type	2
Journal	HJ
Author	Nagato, Teruhiko
Title	Pumori 1978
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1979
Language	-
Citation	36:178-179 (1978-79)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	6580
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	PUMO78101
Reference ID	03
Year	1978
Type	3
Journal	IWA
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1979
Language	Japanese w/English summary
Citation	67:145 (1979)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	7005
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	PUMO78101
Reference ID	04
Year	1978
Type	3
Journal	IWA
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1979
Language	Japanese
Citation	67:43 (1979)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	13046
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	PUMO78101
Reference ID	05
Year	1978
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197926801/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-South-Ridge
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	13633
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	PUMO78101
Reference ID	06
Year	1978
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/36/33/expeditions-and-notes-36/
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
PUMO78101	AAJ	Nagato, Teruhiko	-	-	53:268 (1979)	-
PUMO78101	HJ	Nagato, Teruhiko	Pumori 1978	-	36:178-179 (1978-79)	-
PUMO78101	IWA	-	-	-	67:145 (1979)	-
PUMO78101	IWA	-	-	-	67:43 (1979)	-
PUMO78101	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197926801/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-South-Ridge	-	-	-
PUMO78101	-	-	https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/36/33/expeditions-and-notes-36/	-	-	-