Pumori | 1974 W Face

A Japan expedition to Pumori in 1974 via W Face, led by Hiroshi Fujita. Summit reached on 13th October 1974. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2313
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO74301
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1974
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hiroshi Fujita
Sponsor Himalayan Expedition of Unpo Alpne Club
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1974-09-17
Summit Date 1974-10-13
Summit Time 0950
Summit Days 26
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/09,5300m),C1(19/09,5620m),C2(26/09,5940m),C3(07/10,6650m),Smt(13/10)
Route Notes Takagi - 27 Oct 74 Matsuda and Mizuta arrive yesterday ex-Lukla; others waiting for plane maybe tomorrow or day after. Summit arrive 13 by Minoru Takagi and Nobuyuki Kaneko correct; they were only summiters because no food left. Sherpas only to C1. West Face very steep and they cannot climb that; snow and ice and rock mixed. From C2 to summit very difficult climbing: -60 degree to 90 degrees. Had planned a C4 but no place for camp site on steep face. Summiters left C3 at 2:40 am and reached summit 9:50. No oxygen used at all climbing or sleeping. No accident or serious illness or frostbite or Yeti. Always avalanches but small and I can choose good route, so none hit expedition, but 5m from between C2 and C3 after snowfall. Leave Nepal after 10 days. Pumori summit: Minoru Takagi Nobuyuki Kaneko Oct 13 9:50 am Weather fine, all well. Fujita - 29 Sept 74 Left BC 26 Sept and arrived KTM via Syangboche 28 Sept. "I am well but my age is 55 and Dr says better go down to KTM and wait good news of success." All members very well; Matsunda now leads our party. C1 information correct C2 after 26 Sept established at 5950m Climbing via West Face very difficult but we try new route; if necessary escape to West Ridge. Middle West Face very dangerous, many avalanches. Trying nearer West Ridge rocks but if this too difficult go onto West Ridge. C4 will be highest at 6600m about 8 or 9th Oct with summit 9th-11th Oct. "I hope 6 members in 3 teams reach summit; 6 is almost all of 7 climbing members, but West Face very difficult and may be only one party." Fujita stays THT Guest House. If accident on mountain, he flies at once to Syangboche and onto BC. All members now well acclimatized - at first, half members had some trouble. Hattori, Sakada & Okashi - 1 Aug 74 Himalayan Expedition of Alpine Club (Club in Kobe) Total 12 members: 7 arrive KTM 27 July 5 arrive 15 Aug Leave KTM 16 or 17 Aug and by THT charters to Lukla Plan 5 camps above BC. Route is West Face: 1st attempt this route. From Changri Glacier which C1 to be pitched. C4 6800m and if possible put C5 on top of mountain and stay there one night. Hope put 7 on top but perhaps only 2 or 3 members. Attack members = 7. Summit about 15 Oct. 25 Oct start general descent. 3 Sherpas Use oxygen for sleeping and medical use. Lenser re-Pumori: "The west flank is murderous. There you will find no nicely graded west glacier: only a vile icefall and fearful avalanche walls." Fujita came to KTM yesterday after having spent 9 days at BC. He told Reuters here today, "But my age is 55, and the doctor said better go down to KTM and wait for good news of success." All other members also well, he says, but in early days after reaching base camp at 5300m 17th Sept. Half like Fujita himself, suffered some high altitude effects.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445748
Year 1974
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hiroshi Fujita M - Japan Leader Kobe, Hyogo, Japan President, import-export company Details Other expeditions
Junji Matsuda M - Japan Deputy Leader Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Proprietor of home-contruction company Details Other expeditions
Minoru Takagi M 1946 Japan Climbing Leader Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Salesman Details Other expeditions
Yoshinobu Mizuta M 1944 Japan Climber Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Manager of shop selling skiing and climbing equipment Details Other expeditions
Ko Hattori M - Japan Climber Nishinomiya, Hyogo, Japan Dentist Details Other expeditions
Fumiaki Sakoda M - Japan Climber Akashi, Hyogo, Japan Staff member, electric railway company Details Other expeditions
Kiyoshi Ikawa M - Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Staff member, steel office-equipment & furniture manufacturing Co. Details Other expeditions
Motoichi Okoshi M - Japan Climber Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Printer Details Other expeditions
Keigi Nomura M - Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Unemployed; formerly a driver for second-hand car dealer Details Other expeditions
Mutuko Koyama F - Japan Climber Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Staff member, mountaineering-equipment manufacturing company Details Other expeditions
Nobuyuki Kaneko M - Japan Climber Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO74301 AAJ Fujita, Hiroshi - - 49:198-199 (1975) -
PUMO74301 MM - - - 41:11 (Jan 1975) -
PUMO74301 IWA - - - 42:31-32 (1975) -
PUMO74301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197519802/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-West-Face - - -