Pumori | 1973 SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Pumori in 1973 via SW Ridge, led by Shigeyuki Nakamura. Summit reached on 1st May 1973. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2348
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO73101
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1973
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Shigeyuki Nakamura
Sponsor Pumori Expedition of Tohan Club Japan
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1973-04-04
Summit Date 1973-05-01
Summit Time 0730
Summit Days 27
Total Days 30
Termination Date 1973-05-04
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 1300
Total Members 14
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/04,5200m),C1(08/04,5800m),C2(13/04,6200m),C3(24/04,6520m),Smt(01/05)
Route Notes Nakamura - 11 May 73 Arrived KTM yesterday by plane, rest on 12th and 13th. Correct Shigero and Shimasaka summited on 1st May From C3 summit was very far. 2 summiters stayed in bivouac at 7090m on 30th April and 1 May. Reached summit at 7:30 am and stayed 1 hour on top. Started snowing soon after and because very bad so had to biv again that night. Reached C3 at 4:45 pm 2nd May. Fixed rope also above C3; 1300m fixed rope altogether from just below C2. Up to C2 was ice, above C2 rock. Route was South Ridge; this expedition 1st to succeed by South Ridge. Had planned all to go to summit but since route from C3 so very long, only 1 summit attempt. No C4: not enough time, no place to put tent. No yeti, no climbing Sherpas. No accident, illness, frostbite. Pumori Success 1st May, 07:33 hours inspite of bad weather. 2 members - Tatsuji Shigeno Nobuo Shimasaka South Ridge route. Kimura - 5 March 73 Not trekking to Khumbu; fly to Lukla after perhaps 2 or 3 days. Stay at Thyangboche 1 week for practice climbing. Kimura - 3 March 73 South Ridge, same route as British; very difficult so 1 Sherpa. Leave KTM 8 March. On foot from Lamosangu. BC Gorak Shep about 1 April. Yamamoto - 26 Feb 73 3 members here; all others on 1 March. Leave 5 March on foot from Lamosangu, reach base camp about 2 April, return KTM late Jane. Summit 10 May. Route = South Ridge: this new route: 1 team tried but no success (tried by Indians 1953). Very steep knife ridge. BC on southwest glacier at 5200m. Ridge begins on their route at 6400m. C2 below at 6200m and C3 6500m, C4 highest at 6800m, summit 7145m. Hope all members except chief leader to summit.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445217
Year 1973
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Shigeyuki Nakamura M - Japan Leader Kyoto, Japan Head of Rakuzanso Sports stores & permanent Director of Kyoto Mt Details Other expeditions
Tadashi Mochizuki M - Japan Climbing Leader Aichi, Japan Staff member, Meitetsu Tax Co. Details Other expeditions
Takashi Mizuno M - Japan Deputy Leader Gifu, Japan Staff member, Yamakatsu Department Stores Details Other expeditions
Takashi Nakamura M - Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Staff member, Kawashima Textile Co. Details Other expeditions
Yoshinori Kanoh M - Japan Climber Gifu, Japan Rakuzanso Sports Stores Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Yamamoto M 1945 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Staff member, Rakuzanso Sports Stores Details Other expeditions
Katsuichi Kataoka M - Japan Climber Kochi, Japan Staff member, Kataoka Co., electric engineer Details Other expeditions
Satoshi Kimura M 1946 Japan Climber Aichi, Japan Staff member, Meitoku Sangiyo Co. Details Other expeditions
Kazufumi Nagura M - Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Staff member, Kawashima Textile Co. Details Other expeditions
Nobuo Shimasaka M - Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Staff member, Hayata Kogyo Co. Details Other expeditions
Hiroo Imanishi M - Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Staff member, Imanishi Tekko Co. Details Other expeditions
Etsuo Watanabe M - Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Staff member, Nippon Bairin Co. Details Other expeditions
Masaru Terada M - Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Student Details Other expeditions
Tatsuji Shigeno M 1943 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Staff member, Yahata Koki Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO73101 AAJ Nakamura, Shigeyuki - - 48:204-205 (1974) -
PUMO73101 HJ Nakamura, Shigeyuki Pumori, 1973 - 33:201 (1973-74) -
PUMO73101 MM - - - 29:13 (Sep 1973) -
PUMO73101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197420402/Asia-Nepal-Pumori - - -
PUMO73101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/33/33/expeditions-and-notes-33/ - - -