Pumori | 1973 SW Ridge
A Japan expedition to Pumori in 1973 via SW Ridge, led by Shigeyuki Nakamura. Summit reached on 1st May 1973. 14 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2348 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | PUMO73101 |
| Peak ID | PUMO |
| Year | 1973 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Shigeyuki Nakamura |
| Sponsor | Pumori Expedition of Tohan Club Japan |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 4th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Khumbu Valley |
| Basecamp Date | 1973-04-04 |
| Summit Date | 1973-05-01 |
| Summit Time | 0730 |
| Summit Days | 27 |
| Total Days | 30 |
| Termination Date | 1973-05-04 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7138 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 1300 |
| Total Members | 14 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(04/04,5200m),C1(08/04,5800m),C2(13/04,6200m),C3(24/04,6520m),Smt(01/05) |
| Route Notes | Nakamura - 11 May 73 Arrived KTM yesterday by plane, rest on 12th and 13th. Correct Shigero and Shimasaka summited on 1st May From C3 summit was very far. 2 summiters stayed in bivouac at 7090m on 30th April and 1 May. Reached summit at 7:30 am and stayed 1 hour on top. Started snowing soon after and because very bad so had to biv again that night. Reached C3 at 4:45 pm 2nd May. Fixed rope also above C3; 1300m fixed rope altogether from just below C2. Up to C2 was ice, above C2 rock. Route was South Ridge; this expedition 1st to succeed by South Ridge. Had planned all to go to summit but since route from C3 so very long, only 1 summit attempt. No C4: not enough time, no place to put tent. No yeti, no climbing Sherpas. No accident, illness, frostbite. Pumori Success 1st May, 07:33 hours inspite of bad weather. 2 members - Tatsuji Shigeno Nobuo Shimasaka South Ridge route. Kimura - 5 March 73 Not trekking to Khumbu; fly to Lukla after perhaps 2 or 3 days. Stay at Thyangboche 1 week for practice climbing. Kimura - 3 March 73 South Ridge, same route as British; very difficult so 1 Sherpa. Leave KTM 8 March. On foot from Lamosangu. BC Gorak Shep about 1 April. Yamamoto - 26 Feb 73 3 members here; all others on 1 March. Leave 5 March on foot from Lamosangu, reach base camp about 2 April, return KTM late Jane. Summit 10 May. Route = South Ridge: this new route: 1 team tried but no success (tried by Indians 1953). Very steep knife ridge. BC on southwest glacier at 5200m. Ridge begins on their route at 6400m. C2 below at 6200m and C3 6500m, C4 highest at 6800m, summit 7145m. Hope all members except chief leader to summit. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2445217 |
| Year | 1973 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge |
Members
14 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shigeyuki Nakamura | M | - | Japan | Leader | Kyoto, Japan | Head of Rakuzanso Sports stores & permanent Director of Kyoto Mt | Details Other expeditions |
| Tadashi Mochizuki | M | - | Japan | Climbing Leader | Aichi, Japan | Staff member, Meitetsu Tax Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Mizuno | M | - | Japan | Deputy Leader | Gifu, Japan | Staff member, Yamakatsu Department Stores | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Nakamura | M | - | Japan | Climber | Kyoto, Japan | Staff member, Kawashima Textile Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshinori Kanoh | M | - | Japan | Climber | Gifu, Japan | Rakuzanso Sports Stores | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazuo Yamamoto | M | 1945 | Japan | Climber | Kyoto, Japan | Staff member, Rakuzanso Sports Stores | Details Other expeditions |
| Katsuichi Kataoka | M | - | Japan | Climber | Kochi, Japan | Staff member, Kataoka Co., electric engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Satoshi Kimura | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber | Aichi, Japan | Staff member, Meitoku Sangiyo Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazufumi Nagura | M | - | Japan | Climber | Kyoto, Japan | Staff member, Kawashima Textile Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Nobuo Shimasaka | M | - | Japan | Climber | Kyoto, Japan | Staff member, Hayata Kogyo Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroo Imanishi | M | - | Japan | Climber | Kyoto, Japan | Staff member, Imanishi Tekko Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Etsuo Watanabe | M | - | Japan | Climber | Kyoto, Japan | Staff member, Nippon Bairin Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Masaru Terada | M | - | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Tatsuji Shigeno | M | 1943 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Staff member, Yahata Koki | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PUMO73101 | AAJ | Nakamura, Shigeyuki | - | - | 48:204-205 (1974) | - |
| PUMO73101 | HJ | Nakamura, Shigeyuki | Pumori, 1973 | - | 33:201 (1973-74) | - |
| PUMO73101 | MM | - | - | - | 29:13 (Sep 1973) | - |
| PUMO73101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197420402/Asia-Nepal-Pumori | - | - | - |
| PUMO73101 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/33/33/expeditions-and-notes-33/ | - | - | - |