Pumori | 1972 S Face

A France expedition to Pumori in 1972 via S Face, led by Yves Pollet-Villard. Summit reached on 26th October 1972. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2361
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO72301
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1972
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Yves Pollet-Villard
Sponsor Expeditions Savoyarde 1972 a L' Himalaya
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd,3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1972-09-24
Summit Date 1972-10-26
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 32
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 3000
Total Members 8
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(24/09,5200m),C1(29/09,5400m),C2(05/10,6100m),C3(19/10,6600m),Smt(03-04/11)
Route Notes Pollet-Villard - 16 Nov 72 Members Yves Pollet-Villard, Jean Coudray, Yvon Masino, Georges Payot to summit 3 Nov; Maurice Gicquel, Pierre Blanc, Raymond Renaud and Ang Temba on 4th to summit. Doctor did not go to summit. Terrific snow and big wind defeated summit attempts between 26 and 30 Oct, by same team as on 3rd Nov. They waited one day in C3 and then down to base again up on Nov 1. All camps Ok except C1 where tent was destroyed but went straight then to C2 and C3. "Very difficult" route. All a long way, no platform; always nearly vertical; 60-65 degrees at least. 2 days to put one tent because no platform and made platform in ice C2 and C3. South Face directissima. Shrestha, MFA - 2 Nov 72 Reached 22,770 ft 25 Oct Bad weather, rest to C3 and will try again 3 or 4 Nov. All well. Jan Boar - 26 Oct 72 All members in base camp 21-22 Oct for rest. 3 camps already established on South Face. Perhaps a 4th camp would be needed. Any day after 23rd wanted to go up through camps to summit but cold, winds and cloud were problems. 20 Oct C3 6600m this the last camp before the summit from leader received 24 Oct by Michelle, French embassy C1 established 29 Sept 5400m C2 established 5 Oct 6100m at the foot of the rock face which constitutes a different point in the climb Expected progress stopped by bad weather which closed down on the area Friday and Saturday 6 and 7 Oct. All members returns to base camp. Return of good weather should allow resumption of progress, i.e., to climb over the rock face, to install C3 at about 6400m by the end of the week. The whole team is well. Shrestha, MFA - 1 Oct 72 Pumori base camp established at 17,030 ft. No date given, message sent on 27 Sept. Thomas - 18 Sept 72 With other flight at 9:15 today carrying Payot and 1 other member, all Pumori members have now left KTM for Lukla. Payot - 9 Sept 72 Leader and doctor arrive today others tomorrow. Tues-Friday to Lukla for baggage and Saturday members and Sherpas. Pumori technically more difficult although not so long route. 6000 ft straight up from base, their routes on Pumori. Gicgeul & Payot - 4 Sept 72 Base camp at Gorak Shep about 5200m. Climbing route South Face. 4 high camps with highest at 6600m. If face dangerous, try SW Ridge. "Too steep, too difficult that's no problem." No oxygen for climbing. Summit attack end of Oct - first of Nov. Chose Pumori because very difficult and very nice mountain. 3500 kg baggage, 150 porters 8 Sherpas All members from Chamonix except doctor from Paris 3000m or more fixed rope on face Leave KTM 12-15 Sept by air to Lukla if possible All other members arrive 9 Sept Lenser says Pumori South Ridge is possible. "150m very steep and very difficult but possible in good weather." Lenser intended climb by this route in '62 but every day very strong wind.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445029
Year 1972
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yves Pollet-Villard M 1929 France Leader Le Clusaz, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide & professor at l'Ecole Nationale de Ski et d'Alpi Details Other expeditions
Maurice Gicquel M 1936 France Deputy Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Chamonix mountaineering guide & professor at l'Ecole Nationale Details Other expeditions
Gerard Berthoud M 1932 France Exp Doctor Creil, Oise, France Physician, specialist in ear, nose & throat Details Other expeditions
Pierre Blanc M 1942 France Climber - Alpine guide & professor at l'Ecole Nationale de Ski et d'Alpi Details Other expeditions
Jean Coudray M 1942 France Climber - Alpine guide & professor at l'Ecole Nationale de Ski et d'Alpi Details Other expeditions
Yvon Masino M 1940 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide & professor at l'Ecole Nationale de Ski et d'Alpi Details Other expeditions
Georges Payot M 1937 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide & professor at l'Ecole Nationale de Ski et d'Alpi Details Other expeditions
Raymond Renaud M 1941 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide & professor at l'Ecole Nationale de Ski et d'Alpi Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO72301 AAJ Gicquel, Maurice - - 47:480-481 (1973) -
PUMO72301 HJ Gicquel, Maurice South Face of Pumori Expedition Savoyarde to Himalaya, 1972 - 32:6-12 (1972-73) -
PUMO72301 - Meleze, Josette Directissime Pumori Presses de la Cite, Paris - M306
PUMO72301 MM - - - 25:10 (Jan 1973) -
PUMO72301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197348000/Asia-Nepal-Pumori - - -
PUMO72301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/32/3/south-face-of-pumori-7145-m-himalaya-1972/ - - -