Pumori | 1961 SE Face-NE Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Pumori in 1961 via SE Face-NE Ridge, led by Werner Staeuble. Summit reached on 7th December 1961. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2539
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO61401
Peak ID PUMO
Year 1961
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Werner Staeuble
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries W Germany
Approach -
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 1961-12-07
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 9
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites xxx(07/12,6300m?)
Route Notes Gerhard Lenser - 23 Sept 72 Pumori - South Ridge in 1962 very strong wind every day; had intended to climb this way but 150m very steep and difficult, but possible in good weather. 1961 one Swiss and German; both Swiss had been with Dhaulagiri expeditions in 1955 and 1958. Staeuble (Swiss) and Mehl (German, but not really a climber). Did not have permit; went like trekkers. Had base below NE Ridge between Gorak Shep and Everest base and started climbing in Dec 1961 and took 9-11 good Sherpas including Annulu. Reached Pumori NE Ridges: Lenser thinks only Sherpas reached ridge. Tried to climb SE Face and up to about 6300m according one Sherpa cook on 7th Dec, but could find no campsite and came down in darkness. Tried to go back down to base at night - during descent one rope of Staeuble and Sherpa fell 200-300m and both killed. Mehl and Annulu in descent also; Mehl hands and feet frozen and Annulu carried Mehl on back. Searched for many hours; later found 2 dead men (Staeuble and Sherpa). Pumori 1961 - winter Gerhard Lenser - 7 Aug 79 Gerd Mehl - German Werner Staeuble (Swiss) and another European (Gerd Mehl who did no climbing) did not have permission to climb Pumori, but only to Thyangboche. 9 Sherpas, sirdar = Annulu. 2-3 Sherpas reached NE Ridge which Lenser's team climbed and made a camp. On Dec 2 Sherpas and Mehl and Staeuble were going to C2 or C3; became dark and exhausted. Mehl had a paralyzed leg. Staeuble and his Sherpa slid down ice face and died other 2 tried to go down in dark and other Sherpas came up to help. Mehl and Sherpa became badly frostbitten. In Germany Mehl told press he had climbed Pumori, then said stopped few meters below summit so as not to take virgin peak from Lenser. Could show no high photos. Lenser learned truth from Sherpas and from German resident of KTM. Very little publicity about climb because Staeuble insured only for photography to Thyangboche and insurance paid. Staeuble was on Dhaulagiri I in the 50's. Don't know whether he was leader (was a climber in 1955 and leader in 1958).
Accidents Leader and 1 Sherpa killed in fall
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2441042
Year 1961
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face-ne ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Gerd Mehl M - W Germany Climber Baden-Baden, Baden-Wuerttemburg, W Germany - Details Other expeditions
Walter Staeuble M 1930 Switzerland Leader Zurich, Switzerland - Details Other expeditions
Unknown Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Annulu Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.