Pumori | 2017 S Face (new rte)

A Romania expedition to Pumori in 2017 via S Face (new rte), led by Vlad Capusan. Summit reached on 10th May 2017. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9436
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO17102
Peak ID PUMO
Year 2017
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face (new rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Romania
Leaders Vlad Capusan
Sponsor Romanian Pumori Expedition 2017
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2017-04-26
Summit Date 2017-05-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 14
Total Days 15
Termination Date 2017-05-11
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6800m due to avalanching and dangerous conditions
High Point (m) 6800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/04,5300m),Biv1(06/05,6000m),Biv2(07/05,6400m),Biv3(08/05,6580m),xxx(10/05,6800m)
Route Notes We placed the base camp on the south side near the two lake's. The altitude was 5300m. We reached BC on 26 April 2017. Before starting, we studied carefully the route that the Croats made in the 80's. They chose a variant on the left side and went out into the south-western ridge. We decided to try a direct route on the central part of the wall and make the exit to the central ramp. We had the same start as the Croatians, but we lost a day at the entrance on the face. The glacier is fractured by a giant crevase that we have hardly managed to cross it. After entering the common chimney, we took it on a direct couloir, avoiding the left side of the wall. We didn't find any equipment or materials in the wall. We climb for 4 days in very difficult conditions and we placed 3 bivy's. The route is mainly composed by rock and ice at 70-90 degrees. We reached 6580m on the last bivy, and we were close to the exit in the summit ridge, but around 5 am, black clouds swallowed the face, soon it start snowing heavily, we treat climbing and we reached the highest point on 6800m where an avalanche took me down and I stopped by one Friend. I was very lucky. We reached 6800m, and after the avalanche fell on the ramp, we realised we are like sitting ducks in front of fire, so considering the weather, we decided that the only chance we have, is to belay down the wall. Although I did not hit in fall I started coughing hard enough (our bivy platform at 6580m was gone and the wall has transformed into a huge avalanche funnel). We started belying in regroups made from a single piton (we had 13 CT pitons with us, we used 11 and we also left some slings and friends in some regroups). I don't really know exactly what hour we reached the base of the wall, but I know it was already night. We reached BC in 10 May around 2-3 am. We were completely finished.
Accidents Fall without incidence (just some snow particules in the lungs)
Achievement -
Agency Snowy Horizon Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461341
Year 2017
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face (new rte)

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vlad Capusan M 1990 Romania Leader Cluj, Romania Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Zsolt Torok M 1973 Romania Climber Arad, Romania Professional alpinist & alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO17102 - - http://vladcapusan.ro/de-ce-pumori/ - - -
PUMO17102 AAJ Capusan, Vlad Pumori, South Face, Attempt - 92:338-339 (2018) -
PUMO17102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214338/Pumori-South-Face-Attempted-New-Route - - -