Pumori | 2010 S Ridge from SE Glacier

A Ecuador expedition to Pumori in 2010 via S Ridge from SE Glacier, led by Oswaldo Freire Cartagena. Summit reached on 24th October 2010. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6986
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO10302
Peak ID PUMO
Year 2010
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge from SE Glacier
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Ecuador
Leaders Oswaldo Freire Cartagena
Sponsor Climbing Group of San Gabriel College of Quito-Ecuador
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 157
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2010-10-10
Summit Date 2010-10-24
Summit Time 1315
Summit Days 14
Total Days 16
Termination Date 2010-10-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 1150
Total Members 10
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/10,5300m),ABC(14/10,5700m),C1(16/10,6200m),C2(22/10,6450m),Smt(24/10)
Route Notes BC at west side of big lake northeast of Kalapattar ABC on glacier south of SE Face C1 slightly below South Ridge via snow ramp to rocky area. C2 10m below South Ridge. The summit bid was made by Freire and Jarrin on 24 October, starting from C2 at 4:30 am. They climbed the South Ridge to the top, which they reached at 5:15 pm, and returned to C2 at 1:15 am of the 25th, very tired." They had had "a very long day" on a new variation on the South Ridge route, and it presented serious problems. Their BC was on the west side of a large lake near the foot of SE Face, and ABC was pitched on the 14th at 5700m on the glacier at the bottom of the face. C1, occupied on the 16th, was set below the South Ridge and reached by a snow ramp up the left edge of the SE Face to a rocky area, while C2, slept in on the 22nd, was a mere 10 meters below the ridge. Climbing up from C2, they had to protect every pitch until the last 100 meters. The ridge was very sharp with many overhanging seracs, so they constantly had to traverse onto the left face of the ridge, moving 20-25 meters below the ridge itself in a zigzag line, climbing down from the ridge and then back up onto the ridge over and over again. And they had to descend in the same zigzag pattern because "in the dark we wanted to follow the lines so we could not get lost." Above C2 they fixed only 50 meters of rope because to fix more would take several days. So one man would move ahead while being belayed by the other below him, then the rope would be reeled in as the lower man came up until they met, and then the whole process would be repeated. Actually Stacey and Suarez had also left C2 at 4:30 am, but by 8:00 am, these two were very cold, and it was decided that four men moving together would make for extremely slow progress, so Freire and Jarrin would continue their summit attempt and the other two would go back to C2, which they reached at 10:00 am. The remaining six members did the work of dismantling their camps and cooking for the summit pair. Nine of the ten members were good friends who had climbed together in the past, and Riddel, who was new to the group, would climb with them in the future. Freire and Jarrin joined the others in BC at 2:00 pm on the 25th while the others, who had started removing the camps the day before, got to BC one hour later. The team left BC on the 26th.
Accidents -
Achievement Made a new variation of S Ridge route
Agency High Altitude Dreams
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458899
Year 2010
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge from se glacier

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Peter William Ayarza M 1967 USA Climber Quito, Ecuador Engineer Details Other expeditions
Oswaldo Aurielo Freire Cartagena M 1973 Ecuador Leader Quito, Ecuador Engineer Details Other expeditions
Ramiro David Garrido Villagomez M 1980 Ecuador Climber Quito, Ecuador Journalist Details Other expeditions
Joshua Rosendo Jarrin Molina M 1986 Ecuador Climber Quito, Ecuador Chef Details Other expeditions
Luis Eduardo Naranjo Harnisth M 1979 Ecuador Climber Quito, Ecuador Engineer Details Other expeditions
Santiago Alberto Palacios Alvarez M 1955 Ecuador Exp Doctor Quito, Ecuador Physician Details Other expeditions
Mauricio Jose Reinoso Moreno M 1960 Ecuador Climber Quito, Ecuador Engineer Details Other expeditions
Mary Catherine Riddel F 1961 USA Climber Quito, Ecuador Teacher Details Other expeditions
Luis Eduardo Stacey Retamal M 1967 Ecuador Climber Quito, Ecuador Teacher of anthropology Details Other expeditions
Marco Manuel Suarez Carrera M 1955 Ecuador Climber Quito, Ecuador Accountant Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.