Pumori | 2004 SE Face-E Ridge

A Austria expedition to Pumori in 2004 via SE Face-E Ridge, led by Markus Gschwendt, Paul Schweizer. Summit reached on 6th November 2004. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4808
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO04306
Peak ID PUMO
Year 2004
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face-E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Markus Gschwendt, Paul Schweizer
Sponsor Independent team on Pumori (David Kenyon permit)
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 149
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2004-10-27
Summit Date 2004-11-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 10
Total Days 14
Termination Date 2004-11-10
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Ama Dablam (AMAD-043-26)
Campsites BC(27/10,5300m),ABC(02/11,5700m),C1(04/11,6300m),Smt(06/11)
Route Notes Email to Miss Hawley from Paul Schweizer - Dec 8, 2004 EAH: Dave Kenyon said his party climbed the South Face of Pumori. You must have been on the normal route of SE Face to East Ridge, which other teams this autumn successfully climbed. PS: Yes, we climbed the normal route [on Pumori], but I'm pretty sure that Dave Kenyon's group did as well, because the fixed ropes on the route were allegedly put up by them, and then left in place at the request of the German expedition. EAH: I said I was interested to know about them - I always want to know about climbers -- and he [the LO] told me he had met two Austrians and a Briton who claimed to have been out of Scotts' permit but had no proof. He asked to see their passports but was told they left their documents at Lukla - which he thought was unlikely to be true. He obtained their names on a piece of paper -- which typically did not have in his possession just then but would tell their names to me some other time -- but he felt they had given fictitious ones. PS: We gave him our real names (at that point we still hoped that Gary Scott's agreement might mean something) but nothing else - no passport numbers. EAH: I said I had heard from another Ama Dablam climber that Scott had made a promise to some people who were on the mountain when he was there, and I emphasized to the official [the LO] that these people were clearly innocent of willful wrong-doing. He didn't sound as though he had any intention of pursuing the matter, and I won't remind him of it by seeking the names. Let's hope that's the end of the matter, but I'll let you know if he raises it again. PS: Well, thanks very much for your good word on our behalf - hopefully the matter will rest there. I thought that Nepal was a wonderful country, and would certainly like to be allowed to return. Email to Miss Hawley from Paul Schweizer - Dec 6, 2004 EAH: What was the alitude of your base camp: PS: It was the muddy lake at 5300m. But we didn't have a cook, mess tent, etc, so we didn't this camp much (only stayed there a couple of nights) - instead we used the Himalayan Lodge in Gorak Shep as our de facto base camp. EAH: Was your high camp the only camp you pitched above base? PS: No, we also used the standard ABC at 5700m. EAH: What was its altitude, where was it on the mountain, and on what date did you first occupy it? PS: Our high camp was at 6300m, several hundreds meters below the standard Camp 2. We first carried a load of equipment there from ABC on 31 Oct, then descended to Gorak Shep and rested for a couple of days, then spent a night at ABC and then first slept at high camp on 4 Nov. We we hoping to summit on 5 Nov but Markus wasn't feeling good so we waited a day. EAH: From it you summited on 6 Nov. When did you leave base to go to Pheriche? PS: We descended from high camp high to Gorak Shep on 7th Nov. Then on 9 Nov we returned with 3 porters and cleared from ABC and BC and returned to Gorak Shep. On 10 Nov we went to Pheriche.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency None
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456715
Year 2004
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face-e ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Markus Gschwendt M 1969 Austria Co-Leader Vienna, Austria Alpine club youth leader and mgr of kayaking business Details Other expeditions
Paul Edward Schweizer M 1955 UK Co-Leader Edinburgh, Scotland Lecturer in logic and philosophy Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO04306 - - http://expedition.runout.at/index.php - - -