Pumori | 2001 W Face-S Ridge up; E Ridge-S Face/Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Pumori in 2001 via W Face-S Ridge up; E Ridge-S Face/Ridge, led by Ueli Buehler. Summit reached on 7th May 2001. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3855
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PUMO01101
Peak ID PUMO
Year 2001
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-S Ridge up; E Ridge-S Face/Ridge
Route 2 SE Face/Ridge
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Ueli Buehler
Sponsor -
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 133
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2001-04-27
Summit Date 2001-05-07
Summit Time 0600
Summit Days 10
Total Days 11
Termination Date 2001-05-08
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7138
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites W-Face-BC(27/04,5200m),C1(30/04,5700m),Biv(06/05,6800m),Smt(07/05); SE-Ridge-ABC(30/04,5300m),xxx(06/05,6350m)
Route Notes BC west of Kalapattar C1 at bottom of West Face northwest of point 6186m C2 at bottom of SE Ridge. 1 May [Buehler and Steck] down to Pheriche from west route to rest 2 days; back to C1 on 5 May. 6 May up West Face from start north of C1 to South Ridge at 6700m: left C1 on on 6 May at 2:15 am in nearly full moon and at 7:00-7:30 on ridge and biv at 6800m on South Ridge. Face 80 degrees in spots 55-60 degree ice in most parts: snow mixed pitches. Climbed in alpine style without fixing ropes. On top at 6:00 am on 7th May; down East Ridge to East Col which took long time to reach col with many crevasses. Left top 6:30 am and at col 1:30 pm without any fixed ropes, had to change him of descent several times. From col down via fixed ropes and flags left by Germans on normal route and return to own BC at 8:30 pm. SE Face/Ridge ascent route: Slovak and Schild did normal route after Schlaeppi got sick and could not climb South Ridge with Schild. Schild then went to normal route with Slovak, who had intended to to this route only, but later. Left BC on 5 May to ABC above normal BC; 6 May at 1:00 am left camp for alpine-style attempt of normal route and reached 6350m on SE Face at 10:00 am and too much snow and abandoned attempt and down to normal BC. Normal route too dangerous from seracs. Route on new route {Buehler and Steck]: up West Face to South Ridge to summit; down East Ridge to South Face/Ridge (normal route).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan High Country Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455433
Year 2001
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-s ridge up; e ridge-s face/ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ulrich (Ueli) Buehler M 1966 Switzerland Leader Matten/Interlaken, Bern, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Reto Schild M 1976 Switzerland Climber Meiringen, Bern, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bruno Schlaeppi M 1972 Switzerland Climber Meiringen, Bern, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mark E. Slovak M 1966 USA Climber Billings, Montana Environmental engineer Details Other expeditions
Ueli Steck M 1976 Switzerland Climber Gsteigwiler, Bern, Switzerland Carpenter Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PUMO01101 HIGH - - - 231:77-78 (Feb 2002) -
PUMO01101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 76:409 (2002) -
PUMO01101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200240901/Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Himal-Pumori-West-Face-New-Route - - -