Peak 29 | 1979 W Spur

A Poland expedition to Peak 29 in 1979 via W Spur, led by Ryszard Szafirski. Summit reached on 8th May 1979. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2098
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PK2979101
Peak ID PK29
Year 1979
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Spur
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Ryszard Szafirski
Sponsor Polish Himalaya Exped Peak 29 (Klub Wysokogorski of Zakopane)
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1979-04-06
Summit Date 1979-05-08
Summit Time 1527
Summit Days 32
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7871
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 1400
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/04,4000m),ABC(13/04,4500m),C1(15/04,5700m),C2(21/04,6300m),C3(26/04,7200m),Smt(08/05)
Route Notes Szafirski & Dr Koriszuski - 22 May 79 1st part of route same as Nairz and Manaslu Expedition to about 5600m very difficult (5 grade) and artificial climbing. At 5600m Poles had C1. 2000 ft of rocky buttress to C1. This only safe way then to ridges which is perhaps properly called W Spur. 5 peaks - Poles had trouble deciding which highest. If Wanatabe and Sherpa in 1970 reached highest, it is edge of human possibility. Very difficult rock from E at high altitude. Japanese highest camp 7200m and similar climbing. Poles' attack for C3 at 5 am amd returned from sumit 7:30 pm - young, very strong men. On top 3:27 pm. They had to put some fixed ropes on route above C3 (others had also done same too earlier) - was Pawlikowski and Gajewski on 8th. No 2nd attack is possible because Berbeka had same frostbite (is healing). When reached C3 so tired unable to go further in dark thru seracs, so Szafirski and Malinowski went down to C2 and not in position to go to top. 2 members descended in full moonlight. Put BC very low and needed ABC because porters struck and no Sherpas to ferry loads; members ferried. Szafirski - 25 March 79 Route = W Face - middle of face, not so far south as Japanese in 1974, but first will do recce to see whether more northern approach is easier. Middle of face gives only narrow area of safe route for rest of face menaced by seracs. Leave after 2 days by road to pokhara and from Pokhara up Marshyangdi with 50-60 porters (1400 kg) to BC in 10 days on Tulagi Glacier (where Austrian Manaslu had their BC) at about 4500m. Then about 3000m of West Wall with one camp after first difficult rock and ice part of route at about 6000m: fixed one safe place for a camp where can stay 1 to even 3 weeks if necessary. From this camp, maybe one or two bivs to summit. Summit 10-15th May. Classic Himalayan method impossible for this wall. No Sherpas above BC. No oxygen for climbing or sleeping, in fact none for medical.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447331
Year 1979
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w spur

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Maciej Berbeka M 1954 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Student at Acadamy of Art Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Gajewski M 1954 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Does mountain rescue work Details Other expeditions
Lech Korniszewski M 1936 Poland Exp Doctor Warsaw, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions
Piotr Malinowski M 1944 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Maciej Jozef Pawlikowski M 1951 Poland Climber Poronin, Poland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Szafirski M 1937 Poland Leader Zakopane, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PK2979101 AAJ Brniak, Marek - - 53:618-619 (1980) -
PK2979101 MM - - - 68:14 (Jul 1979) -
PK2979101 MM - - - 69:15 (Sep 1979) -
PK2979101 DAV - - - 106:162-163 (1981) -
PK2979101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198061803/Asia-Nepal-Peak-29-or-Dunapurna - - -