Peak 29 | 1974 SW Face

A Japan expedition to Peak 29 in 1974 via SW Face, led by Fumio Tanaka. Summit reached on 17th April 1974. 19 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2327
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PK2974101
Peak ID PK29
Year 1974
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Fumio Tanaka
Sponsor Yokohama Mountaineering Association Peak 29 West Face Exped
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1974-03-03
Summit Date 1974-04-17
Summit Time -
Summit Days 45
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5800m due to route difficulty and dangerous conditions
High Point (m) 5800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 19
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/03,3700m),C1(06/03,4300m),C2(15/03,4600m),C3(23/03,5050m),C4(27/03,5400m),xxx(17/04,5800m)
Route Notes Dainobu & Shirai - 15 May 74 Isao Kishimoto, Toshiharu Shirai and Shigeo Dainobu arrive today; others came 20-22nd they still coming with baggage. All Ok. Maximum altitude 5800m 17 April 1st time. Weather not so bad, not so good. W Wall very difficult and very dangerous by falling stones which came very near expedition. C4 not yet on wall; C5 would have been on wall at about 5400m but could not find safe place. All members reached 5800m Hamal, MFA - 11 May 74 (11:55 am) After pitched C4, reached 5800m and since no place for them to pitch more camps and since it dangerous, they have decided abandon expedition and on 13 May whole group will be leaving BC to return to KTM. Y Furukawa (interp by Moore) - 8 Feb 74 Try from west side. One lady and 1 US and 17 Japanese member = 19 total. This 1st attempt via West Face. Other expeditions: 1963 and 1969 on east side 1961 recce north 1970 East Ridge (does believe 1970 expedition reached summit) Richard Moore, NYC Leave KTM 16th to Pokhara by air. Base 1 March. Climbing 70 days; longest time over schedule for 7000m peak because face very long and difficult. Base to be dismantled 20 May. Longer than Everest and Annapurna South Face - 2500m altitude. 6 camps above base camp 1 sirdar and 9 Sherpas Hiroshi Tsuchiya - 22 Jan 74 Peak 29 West Wall Expedition 1974 Same caravan route as Austrian Manaslu, but base camp lower near small river and forest at 3700m. 1960 Japanese expedition Osaka U tried West Face of Peak 29 but no success. Different caravan route - reached 7835m. SW Wall very difficult not dangerous - many hanging glaciers. Maybe not climb via Wall but via west Ridge. 16 members arrive 7 Feb; other 2 already here since last Sept.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445479
Year 1974
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

19 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yoshikazu Furukawa M 1923 Japan Advisor Yokohama, Japan Representative of sports store, 'Jannu' Details Other expeditions
Fumio Tanaka M 1946 Japan Leader Yokohama, Japan Electrical cartographic engineer (Sankan Setaubi Co.) Details Other expeditions
Eiko Tanaka F 1947 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Haruyuki Ohuchi M 1940 Japan Climbing Leader Yokohama, Japan Chemical engineer, Asia Oil Co. Details Other expeditions
Masanori Kobayashi M 1942 Japan Deputy Leader Yokohama, Japan Machine engineer (Mitsubishi Pencil Co.) Details Other expeditions
Noriaki Kamo M 1950 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Electrical cartographic engineer (Denshi-Kaihatsu) Details Other expeditions
Minoru Kaneko M 1952 Japan Climber Miura, Kanagawa, Japan Employee of Yokohama Gardening Co. Details Other expeditions
Isao Kishimoto M 1939 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan 'an employee of Carpenter's work master' Details Other expeditions
Kichio Kumasaki M 1951 Japan Climber Sagamihara, Kanagawa, Japan Employee of Japan Victor Co. Details Other expeditions
Toshiharu Shirai M 1949 Japan Climber Chigasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Employee of Kanagawa Traffics Co. Details Other expeditions
Yoshihiro Sugiyama M 1945 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Electrical engineer (Yuasa Battery Co.) Details Other expeditions
Seiichi Takahashi M 1949 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Employee of Nippon Kokan Co. Details Other expeditions
Shigeo Dainobu M 1947 Japan Climber Toride, Iberaki, Japan Employee of Cannon Camera Co. Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Tsuchiya M 1946 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Manager of own shop Details Other expeditions
Tadao Horii M 1948 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Communicating machine assembly mechanist (Ikegami Co.) Details Other expeditions
Minoru Yanagibashi M 1947 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Employee of Nippon Kokan Co. Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Kaneko M 1940 Japan Climber Warabi, Saitama, Japan Surgeon, Tokyo Medical University Details Other expeditions
Ryohei Uchida M 1936 Japan Climber Kohoku, Nagano, Japan Representative of Uchida photo studio Details Other expeditions
Richard Moore M 1940 USA Climber New York, New York Graphic designer Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PK2974101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 49:200 (1975) -
PK2974101 HJ Furukawa, Yoshikazu Peak 29 South-West Wall, 1974 - 33:206-207 (1973-74) -
PK2974101 IWA - - - 42:25-26 (1975) -
PK2974101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197520001/Asia-Nepal-Peak-29-West-Face-Attempt - - -
PK2974101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/33/33/expeditions-and-notes-33/ - - -