Peak 29 | 1970 E Ridge
A Japan expedition to Peak 29 in 1970 via E Ridge, led by Syotaro Mizuno. Summit reached on 19th October 1970. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2472 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | PK2970301 |
| Peak ID | PK29 |
| Year | 1970 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | E Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Syotaro Mizuno |
| Sponsor | Himalayan Expedition of Osaka University Mountaineering Club |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st unverified |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | True |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1970-09-12 |
| Summit Date | 1970-10-19 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 37 |
| Total Days | 42 |
| Termination Date | 1970-10-24 |
| Termination Reason | 6 |
| Termination Notes | Success claimed, but summiters died in descent |
| High Point (m) | 7871 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 10 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 1 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(12/09,4000m),C1(20/09,5100m),C2(23/09,5800m),C3(09/10,6250m),C4(11/10,6900m),C5(18/10,7500m),Smt(19/10) |
| Route Notes | Note: Ohsasa's name given as Ozawa in JAC 1971 Ohsasa - 10 Nov 70 Ohsasa and Ishihara arrive today and others later this evening. No 2nd attempt because of accident. Ohsasa reached 7500m last C5. Peak very difficult above 7000m because steepness, very hard ice. Almost whole route above C4 (6900m) to C5 fixed rope. 4 members reached C5: Ishihara Ohsasa Ono Tai Miss Saigusa's high point was C2 5800m. Fatal accident. No member saw it happen. Watanabe and Lhakpa Tsering at 1:15 pm could be seen from C3 just below summit and again at 3:00 pm could them see perhaps about 7800m and assumed they reached summit between these 2 times. They fell almost at C5, nearly 2 or 3 pitches above C5; fell to very near C4 which at 6900m. Cause of fall not known. Watanabe head injury; cremated at base camp and ashes now at embassy for taking to Japan. Lhakpa Tsering same head injury and spine broken. Climbed by East Ridge (last year's expedition used almost same route). This year had last year's experience: 4 members this expedition twice or 3 times attacked summit last year and these men thus knew route. Last year autumn 7400m highest point reached. Last year little late and this year earlier start and C4 establish very early this year. Last year C4 was highest camp whereas this year had C5, extra camp, in crevasse. BC - 4000m C1 - 5100m C2 - 5800m C3 - 6200m C4 - 6900m C5 - 7500m Small rock found near Lhakpa Tsering's body, probably summit rock. |
| Accidents | 2 summiters killed in fall |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2444199 |
| Year | 1970 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | e ridge |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shotaro Mizuno | M | 1907 | Japan | Leader | Kobe, Hyogo, Japan | Professor of medicine | Details Other expeditions |
| Senya Sumiyoshi | M | 1926 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Nishinomiya, Hyogo, Japan | Physician & lecturer in medicine at Osaka University | Details Other expeditions |
| Akihiro Toyosaka | M | 1941 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Surgeon, Osaka Police Hospital | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Watanabe | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Researcher, cell physiology, Faculty of Science, Osaka Univ | Details Other expeditions |
| Shuichi Ozawa | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Engineer of Sumitomo Shipbuilding & Heavy Machinery Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshiki Tanaka | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Hyogo-ken, Japan | Student of metallurgy, Faculty of Engineering, Osaka University | Details Other expeditions |
| Toshio Ishihara | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber | Okayama-shi, Okayama, Japan | Researcher of chemistry, Faculty of Science, Osaka University | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshio Kuroiwa | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Kochi-shi, Kochi, Japan | Student of economics, Osaka University | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshiteru Ono | M | 1944 | Japan | Climber | Ehime, Japan | Assistant lecturer, civil engineering, Osaka University | Details Other expeditions |
| Hideo Tai | M | 1938 | Japan | Climber | - | Assistant lecturer, civil engineering, Osaka University | Details Other expeditions |
| Reiko Saigusa | F | 1932 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Graduate of Osaka University in medicinal plants; now student | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Tsering Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ila Tshering Sherpa | M | 1936 | Nepal | Sirdar | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
10 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PK2970301 | HJ | Sumiyoshi, Senya | Peak 29 Expeds by the Osaka Univ Mountain Club, 1961-1970 | - | 30:147-153 (1970) | - |
| PK2970301 | AAJ | Sumiyoshi, Senya | - | - | 45:439-440 (1971) | - |
| PK2970301 | JAC | Sumiyoshi, Senya | P-29, 1970 | - | 66:21-24 (1971) | - |
| PK2970301 | MM | - | - | - | 13:7 (Jan 1971) | - |
| PK2970301 | MM | - | - | - | 14:5 (Mar 1971) | - |
| PK2970301 | MM | - | Recent Himalayan Ascents | - | 22:11-19 (Jul 1972) | - |
| PK2970301 | MM | Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman | Peak 29 | - | 43:37-39 (May 1975) | - |
| PK2970301 | JAC | Sumiyoshi, Senya | P-29, 1970 | - | 66:93-108 (1971) | - |
| PK2970301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197143902/Asia-Nepal-Peak-29 | - | - | - |
| PK2970301 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/30/10/peak-29-expeditions-by-the-osaka-university-mountaineering-club-1961-1970/ | - | - | - |