Peak 29 | 1970 E Ridge

A Japan expedition to Peak 29 in 1970 via E Ridge, led by Syotaro Mizuno. Summit reached on 19th October 1970. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2472
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PK2970301
Peak ID PK29
Year 1970
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Syotaro Mizuno
Sponsor Himalayan Expedition of Osaka University Mountaineering Club
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st unverified
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed True
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1970-09-12
Summit Date 1970-10-19
Summit Time -
Summit Days 37
Total Days 42
Termination Date 1970-10-24
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Success claimed, but summiters died in descent
High Point (m) 7871
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/09,4000m),C1(20/09,5100m),C2(23/09,5800m),C3(09/10,6250m),C4(11/10,6900m),C5(18/10,7500m),Smt(19/10)
Route Notes Note: Ohsasa's name given as Ozawa in JAC 1971 Ohsasa - 10 Nov 70 Ohsasa and Ishihara arrive today and others later this evening. No 2nd attempt because of accident. Ohsasa reached 7500m last C5. Peak very difficult above 7000m because steepness, very hard ice. Almost whole route above C4 (6900m) to C5 fixed rope. 4 members reached C5: Ishihara Ohsasa Ono Tai Miss Saigusa's high point was C2 5800m. Fatal accident. No member saw it happen. Watanabe and Lhakpa Tsering at 1:15 pm could be seen from C3 just below summit and again at 3:00 pm could them see perhaps about 7800m and assumed they reached summit between these 2 times. They fell almost at C5, nearly 2 or 3 pitches above C5; fell to very near C4 which at 6900m. Cause of fall not known. Watanabe head injury; cremated at base camp and ashes now at embassy for taking to Japan. Lhakpa Tsering same head injury and spine broken. Climbed by East Ridge (last year's expedition used almost same route). This year had last year's experience: 4 members this expedition twice or 3 times attacked summit last year and these men thus knew route. Last year autumn 7400m highest point reached. Last year little late and this year earlier start and C4 establish very early this year. Last year C4 was highest camp whereas this year had C5, extra camp, in crevasse. BC - 4000m C1 - 5100m C2 - 5800m C3 - 6200m C4 - 6900m C5 - 7500m Small rock found near Lhakpa Tsering's body, probably summit rock.
Accidents 2 summiters killed in fall
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444199
Year 1970
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Shotaro Mizuno M 1907 Japan Leader Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Professor of medicine Details Other expeditions
Senya Sumiyoshi M 1926 Japan Deputy Leader Nishinomiya, Hyogo, Japan Physician & lecturer in medicine at Osaka University Details Other expeditions
Akihiro Toyosaka M 1941 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Surgeon, Osaka Police Hospital Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Watanabe M 1942 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Researcher, cell physiology, Faculty of Science, Osaka Univ Details Other expeditions
Shuichi Ozawa M 1942 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Engineer of Sumitomo Shipbuilding & Heavy Machinery Co. Details Other expeditions
Yoshiki Tanaka M 1947 Japan Climber Hyogo-ken, Japan Student of metallurgy, Faculty of Engineering, Osaka University Details Other expeditions
Toshio Ishihara M 1946 Japan Climber Okayama-shi, Okayama, Japan Researcher of chemistry, Faculty of Science, Osaka University Details Other expeditions
Yoshio Kuroiwa M 1947 Japan Climber Kochi-shi, Kochi, Japan Student of economics, Osaka University Details Other expeditions
Yoshiteru Ono M 1944 Japan Climber Ehime, Japan Assistant lecturer, civil engineering, Osaka University Details Other expeditions
Hideo Tai M 1938 Japan Climber - Assistant lecturer, civil engineering, Osaka University Details Other expeditions
Reiko Saigusa F 1932 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Graduate of Osaka University in medicinal plants; now student Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Tsering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ila Tshering Sherpa M 1936 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

10 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PK2970301 HJ Sumiyoshi, Senya Peak 29 Expeds by the Osaka Univ Mountain Club, 1961-1970 - 30:147-153 (1970) -
PK2970301 AAJ Sumiyoshi, Senya - - 45:439-440 (1971) -
PK2970301 JAC Sumiyoshi, Senya P-29, 1970 - 66:21-24 (1971) -
PK2970301 MM - - - 13:7 (Jan 1971) -
PK2970301 MM - - - 14:5 (Mar 1971) -
PK2970301 MM - Recent Himalayan Ascents - 22:11-19 (Jul 1972) -
PK2970301 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Peak 29 - 43:37-39 (May 1975) -
PK2970301 JAC Sumiyoshi, Senya P-29, 1970 - 66:93-108 (1971) -
PK2970301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197143902/Asia-Nepal-Peak-29 - - -
PK2970301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/30/10/peak-29-expeditions-by-the-osaka-university-mountaineering-club-1961-1970/ - - -