Peak 29 | 1969 E Ridge
A Japan expedition to Peak 29 in 1969 via E Ridge, led by Senya Sumiyoshi. Summit reached on 1st November 1969. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2500 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | PK2969301 |
| Peak ID | PK29 |
| Year | 1969 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | E Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Senya Sumiyoshi |
| Sponsor | Himalayan Expedition of Osaka University |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1969-09-22 |
| Summit Date | 1969-11-01 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 40 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 10 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7400m due to difficult ice wall and crevasses near summit |
| High Point (m) | 7400 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 6 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 7 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(22/09,4100m),C1(27/09,5100m),C2(30/09,5600m),C3(05/10,5900m),C4(18/10,6100m),C5(19/10,6200m),C6(24/10,6900m),xxx(01/11,7400m) |
| Route Notes | Sumiyoshi - 25 Nov 69 End of Oct to 2 Nov - 7 teams attempted summit in 10 days. C6 at 6900m, so almost 1000m very steep ice face (very hard ice). Highest point reached was 7400m on 1st Nov. All 8 climbing members at C6 (no Sherpas there). Good weather and almost every day attacked in 2-member teams (same days 2 parties trying on same day). Fixed rope necessary all way. No camping place to be found above C6. All 8 members reached 7350m. Declines to give names for highest point. If had enough time would develop highest point. Took many days to fix rope and then jet stream causing snow collapsing endangering climbers and very severe cold (-34 degrees at night). Leader may come next year with JAC on Everest. All members return yesterday to KTM, all well. Manadhar, Foreign Ministry - 30 Sept 69 Message from Osaka University, expedition says they established base camp 22 Sept and on 26th Sept starting up to C1. Those going up to C1 were members Senya Sumiyoshi, Yasuo Tamai, Hideo Misawa, Jiro Kuroda, Yoshihiko Koda, Yoshiki Tanaka, Hiroshi Watanabe. BC 4000m C1 4800m C2 5400m C3 6200m C4 6800m C5 7200m C6 7400m Left KTM 3 Sept by truck to Trisuli Bazaar. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2443846 |
| Year | 1969 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | e ridge |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Senya Sumiyoshi | M | 1926 | Japan | Leader | Nishinomiya, Hyogo, Japan | Physician, Dept of Orthopedic Surgery, Osaka University Hospital | Details Other expeditions |
| Yasuo Tamai | M | 1938 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Research associate, Research Laboratories, Fuji Photo Film | Details Other expeditions |
| Hideo Misawa | M | 1940 | Japan | Climber | - | Research associate, Research Dept, Nikko Copper Works | Details Other expeditions |
| Jiro Kuroda | M | 1944 | Japan | Exp Doctor | - | Physician, Osaka University Hospital | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshihiko Koda | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber | - | Student, Dept of Physics, Faculty of Engineering Sciences, Osaka Univ | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshiki Tanaka | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Hyogo-ken, Japan | Student, Dept of Metallurgy, Faculty of Engineering, Osaka Univ | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Watanabe | M | 1943 | Japan | Climber | Osaka, Japan | Researcher, cell physiology, Faculty of Science, Osaka Univ | Details Other expeditions |
| Reiko Saigusa | F | 1932 | Japan | Exp Pharmacist | Tokyo, Japan | Graduate of Pharmacology | Details Other expeditions |
| Yasushi Daikuhara | M | 1937 | Japan | Exp Dentist | - | Instructor, Dept of Biochemistry, Osaka University Dental School | Details Other expeditions |
| Daisuke Makino | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber | - | Graduate Student in polymer science, Osaka University | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Ishihama | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | Master of technology, engineer of Hitashi Shipbuilding Co. | Details Other expeditions |
References
10 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PK2969301 | AAJ | Yoshizawa, Ichiro | - | - | 44:182-183 (1970) | - |
| PK2969301 | JAC | Tamai, Yasuo | Peak 29, 1969 | - | 65:11-12 (1970) | - |
| PK2969301 | HJ | Sumiyoshi, Senya | Peak 29 Expeds by the Osaka Univ Mountain Club, 1961-1970 | - | 30:147-153 (1970) | - |
| PK2969301 | AJ | - | - | - | 75:199 (1970) | - |
| PK2969301 | MM | Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman | Peak 29 | - | 43:37-39 (May 1975) | - |
| PK2969301 | MM | - | - | - | 8:7 (Mar 1970) | - |
| PK2969301 | JAC | Tamai, Yasuo | Peak 29, 1969 | - | 65:114-120 (1970) | - |
| PK2969301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197018203/Asia-Nepal-Peak-29 | - | - | - |
| PK2969301 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/30/10/peak-29-expeditions-by-the-osaka-university-mountaineering-club-1961-1970/ | - | - | - |
| PK2969301 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1970_files/AJ%201970%20196-202%20Nepal.pdf | - | - | - |