Peak 29 | 1969 E Ridge

A Japan expedition to Peak 29 in 1969 via E Ridge, led by Senya Sumiyoshi. Summit reached on 1st November 1969. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2500
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PK2969301
Peak ID PK29
Year 1969
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Senya Sumiyoshi
Sponsor Himalayan Expedition of Osaka University
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1969-09-22
Summit Date 1969-11-01
Summit Time -
Summit Days 40
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7400m due to difficult ice wall and crevasses near summit
High Point (m) 7400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/09,4100m),C1(27/09,5100m),C2(30/09,5600m),C3(05/10,5900m),C4(18/10,6100m),C5(19/10,6200m),C6(24/10,6900m),xxx(01/11,7400m)
Route Notes Sumiyoshi - 25 Nov 69 End of Oct to 2 Nov - 7 teams attempted summit in 10 days. C6 at 6900m, so almost 1000m very steep ice face (very hard ice). Highest point reached was 7400m on 1st Nov. All 8 climbing members at C6 (no Sherpas there). Good weather and almost every day attacked in 2-member teams (same days 2 parties trying on same day). Fixed rope necessary all way. No camping place to be found above C6. All 8 members reached 7350m. Declines to give names for highest point. If had enough time would develop highest point. Took many days to fix rope and then jet stream causing snow collapsing endangering climbers and very severe cold (-34 degrees at night). Leader may come next year with JAC on Everest. All members return yesterday to KTM, all well. Manadhar, Foreign Ministry - 30 Sept 69 Message from Osaka University, expedition says they established base camp 22 Sept and on 26th Sept starting up to C1. Those going up to C1 were members Senya Sumiyoshi, Yasuo Tamai, Hideo Misawa, Jiro Kuroda, Yoshihiko Koda, Yoshiki Tanaka, Hiroshi Watanabe. BC 4000m C1 4800m C2 5400m C3 6200m C4 6800m C5 7200m C6 7400m Left KTM 3 Sept by truck to Trisuli Bazaar.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2443846
Year 1969
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Senya Sumiyoshi M 1926 Japan Leader Nishinomiya, Hyogo, Japan Physician, Dept of Orthopedic Surgery, Osaka University Hospital Details Other expeditions
Yasuo Tamai M 1938 Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan Research associate, Research Laboratories, Fuji Photo Film Details Other expeditions
Hideo Misawa M 1940 Japan Climber - Research associate, Research Dept, Nikko Copper Works Details Other expeditions
Jiro Kuroda M 1944 Japan Exp Doctor - Physician, Osaka University Hospital Details Other expeditions
Yoshihiko Koda M 1946 Japan Climber - Student, Dept of Physics, Faculty of Engineering Sciences, Osaka Univ Details Other expeditions
Yoshiki Tanaka M 1947 Japan Climber Hyogo-ken, Japan Student, Dept of Metallurgy, Faculty of Engineering, Osaka Univ Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Watanabe M 1943 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Researcher, cell physiology, Faculty of Science, Osaka Univ Details Other expeditions
Reiko Saigusa F 1932 Japan Exp Pharmacist Tokyo, Japan Graduate of Pharmacology Details Other expeditions
Yasushi Daikuhara M 1937 Japan Exp Dentist - Instructor, Dept of Biochemistry, Osaka University Dental School Details Other expeditions
Daisuke Makino M 1942 Japan Climber - Graduate Student in polymer science, Osaka University Details Other expeditions
Takashi Ishihama M - Japan Climber - Master of technology, engineer of Hitashi Shipbuilding Co. Details Other expeditions

References

10 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PK2969301 AAJ Yoshizawa, Ichiro - - 44:182-183 (1970) -
PK2969301 JAC Tamai, Yasuo Peak 29, 1969 - 65:11-12 (1970) -
PK2969301 HJ Sumiyoshi, Senya Peak 29 Expeds by the Osaka Univ Mountain Club, 1961-1970 - 30:147-153 (1970) -
PK2969301 AJ - - - 75:199 (1970) -
PK2969301 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Peak 29 - 43:37-39 (May 1975) -
PK2969301 MM - - - 8:7 (Mar 1970) -
PK2969301 JAC Tamai, Yasuo Peak 29, 1969 - 65:114-120 (1970) -
PK2969301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197018203/Asia-Nepal-Peak-29 - - -
PK2969301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/30/10/peak-29-expeditions-by-the-osaka-university-mountaineering-club-1961-1970/ - - -
PK2969301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1970_files/AJ%201970%20196-202%20Nepal.pdf - - -