Peak 29 | 1963 E Ridge

A Japan expedition to Peak 29 in 1963 via E Ridge, led by Hirokazu Kimura. Summit reached on 29th October 1963. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2533
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PK2963301
Peak ID PK29
Year 1963
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hirokazu Kimura
Sponsor Japanese Himalaya Expedition of Osaka University 1963
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1963-10-11
Summit Date 1963-10-29
Summit Time -
Summit Days 18
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6300m due to route difficulties and lack of food
High Point (m) 6300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/10,4200m),C1(4500m),C2(20/10,5100m),C3(24/10,5700m),C4(29/10,6000m),xxx(6300m)
Route Notes Tamura - 29 Nov 63 Kimura and Namba left for Calcutta via Patna today. Hirose leaves same way on 2 Dec (Monday). Tamura Monday am sets out on trek of Solukhumbu area with one Sherpa; returns Kathmandu after about 1 month (late Dec or right after New Year's). Tamura - 26 Nov Peak 29's east side only route listed as possible - east route we took only way to conquer after comparing with west side. Recon "successful from point of view of recon." Expedition reached Pokhara yesterday late afternoon and caught plane to KTM. Then leader leave KTM end Nov. Tamura and Hirose stay 10 more weeks longer. All in good health. We want to send one big party to attack Peak 29 next autumn, the year of Olympics in Japan, but most consider finances and perhaps next year too soon to manage. Perhaps Tamura and Hirose come to guide. Need about 7-8 members to conquer this peak: double this year's 3 climbing members. Samagaon people friendly this time; now realize are Nepalese and must obey Nepal govt's liaison officer and police. Professor Shinoda - 3 Sept 63 Osaka University 1963 expedition approved sponsored by Ministry of Education so doing scientific work also. Will study medicinal plants and study areas which is boundary of Tibetan and Indian plants. Peak 29 is between Himalchuli and Manaslu. Expedition goes to Trisuli Bazar by truck, north up Buri Gandaki, west to near Samagaon. Base south of Sama (as for south of Sama as possible because people there oppose invasion of god's homes on mountain tops). After climb will go through Larkya Pass to Thonje on Marshyangdi River and investigate Darakhola (valley found by Japanese party in 1961) which goes east from Thonje - study icefall there. (Leader Shinoda comes only to Kathmandu; expedition climbing leader is vice-leader) Shinoda stays Kathmandu till Saturday and to London and Japan. Then to Pokhara end Nov on early Dec and fly to Kathmandu from Pokhara. Expedition leaves KTM 15-20th Sept for climbing. Dr Tamura goes to Calcutta Friday via Patna and meet baggage and 3 other members. All 4 who will be climbing are in Himalayas for first time. 10th Oct base camp established if able clear Calcutta customs on schedule and if people around Sama do not force change in route. Peak 29 never climbed before. Japanese 1961 expedition 1st attempt. Name from Indian survey (Manaslu 28; Himalchuli 30). Local name may be Thulanagi. Expedition financed by Osaka private companies. Shinoda - 6 Sept 63 Expedition's Sherpas: Sirdar - Ang Temba Cook - Ang Dawa III (was also on Shinoda's 1961 expedition) High Altitude Porter - Mingma Tenji High Altitude Porter - Phuri Sherpa Liaison officer is Kishore Shumsher J B Rana (Field Marshal Rudra grandson) Letter from Tamura Nov 17, 1963 We met our mailrunner at Thanje and receive your letter on the East Ridge of Peak 29. This height gained the attack from C4, settled at 6000m. We thought that we could find possible route to the summit of Peak 29. By the observation, so we discontinued our climbing; another reason that we discontinued was that all our food and equipment were spent out. After staying "Sama" village about few days during which we succeeded to make a good friendship with the people who had been very unfriendly for us, our homeward trip began 7th Nov along the Marshyangdi river. We arrived at Thanje 11th Nov. We stayed here 5 days for the reconnaissance of west side of Peak 29 and today 17th Nov. We are leaving Thonje for Pokhara. We expect to the Pokhara 25th Nov. Our mailrunner are ordered to go Kathmandu directly without dropping on Hospital and to stay Kathmandu because we will reach KTM almost same time when he arrive there. Letter from Namba - Oct 26 We are keeping good condition. Also in Sama village are taken good situation. But we are feeling very sorry and broken our heart because we listened to some bad news of Italian expedition. We make C3 on 5700m high already. Mr Hirose is keeping the best condition in usually. Also Mr Nimura, Dr Tamura and all Sherpas. Staying in BC, Dr Namba and Mr. Rana are reporting in daily. In Peak 29 with avalanches some mystery is full. But under the sunlight its shape is lovely and beautiful. In midnight Orion are moving over the snow mountains of Peak 29. We are not remembered to the troubles at Buri Gandaki at all. We are climbing very smooth. Also weather is cleared up but sometime cloud.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2441645
Year 1963
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Gunji Shinoda M - Japan Leader - Professor of Physics Osaka University, Faculty of Engineering Details Other expeditions
Hirokazu Kimura M - Japan Deputy Leader - Staff member of Nippon Aluminium Co. Details Other expeditions
Tsuneo Namba M - Japan Climber - Instructor of Osaka University, faculty of pharmacy Details Other expeditions
Sadao Hirose M - Japan Climber - Master of engineering Details Other expeditions
Toshihide Tamura M - Japan Climber Japan Physician, Osaka University Hospital Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PK2963301 AAJ Yoshizawa, Ichiro - - 38:228 (1964) -
PK2963301 JAC Shinoda, Gunji Peak 29, 1963 - 59:12-13 (1964) -
PK2963301 HJ Sumiyoshi, Senya Peak 29 Expeds by the Osaka Univ Mountain Club, 1961-1970 - 30:147-153 (1970) -
PK2963301 HJ Shinoda, Gunji Peak 29, 1963 - 30:151-162 (1970) -
PK2963301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196422801/Asia-Nepal-Peak-29 - - -
PK2963301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/30/10/peak-29-expeditions-by-the-osaka-university-mountaineering-club-1961-1970/ - - -