Phole | 2024 N Face

A Japan expedition to Phole in 2024 via N Face, led by Hidesuke Taneishi. Summit reached on 31st October 2024. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11557
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PHOL24301
Peak ID PHOL
Year 2024
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hidesuke Taneishi
Sponsor Japanese Pholesobi North Face Expedition 2024
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Plane KTM-Badhrapur, Jeep to Sekatum. 3-day hike to Kangbachen.
Basecamp Date 2024-10-09
Summit Date 2024-10-31
Summit Time 1700
Summit Days 22
Total Days 26
Termination Date 2024-11-04
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6645
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/10,4100m),ABC(26/10,5050m),Biv1(27/10,5750m),Biv2(28/10,5900m),Biv3(29/10,6200m),Biv4(30/10,6350m),Smt(31/10)
Route Notes Approach: Plane KTM-Badhrapur, Jeep to Sekatum. 3-day hike to Kangbachen (normal Pangpema BC trail). BC 09/10 4100m at lodge in Kangbachen ABC 26/10 5050m in tent underneath the wall at the end of a small side glacier of Kumbhakarna Glacier Biv1 27/10 5750m portaledge in the wall Biv2 28/10 5900m portaledge in the wall Biv3 29/10 6200m portaledge in the wall Biv4 30/10 6350m portaledge in the wall Smt 31/10 by both members at 5 pm. Alpine-style climb, no Sherpa support. Had climbed the route in 2023 up to 6100m, when they had to be rescued by helicopter because of AMS. This time they wanted to finish the line. Wanted to climb fast on the first day, so they fixed three pitches of rope at the beginning of the wall. On 31/10 to summit and descent to same bivy. Start from bivy 4 at 6:30 am. On top at 5 pm. 8 pitches from bivy to summit. Stayed on the top for 5-10 minutes. Summit is a steep snow cornice, not much space to stand. Exit from north face just 20m far from highest point. Very good weather, not just on summit day, but on whole duration of climb. Back to bivy 4 at 8:30 pm. On 01/11 down to ABC. Rappels to ABC, same way as ascent. Arrival ABC at 9 pm. On 02/11 to Kangbachen. Left BC on 04/11, same caravan route out via Sekatum and Taplejung to Badhrapur. North Face 70-80° steep. Crux: At 6300m just before bivy 4 mix terrain ice/rock, 80°. Relatively good protection with nuts, tricams, etc. Single rope climb (9.1mm). For rappels semi-static rope 6mm. They took turns leading the climb. Used G7 pod portaledges on all bivies. North Face relatively safe, not much rockfall. Mostly mixed climbing in lower and upper parts of wall, only in middle part ice climbing. Rate of climb: ED+ (similar to Eiger, Grandes Jorasses NF). Name: “North Face Direct” Oxygen: Not taken, not used Fixed rope: 150m (5200-5350m) Records: First Ascent Other peaks: Merra Peak up to 6150m on 18/10 for acclimatization.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2465924
Year 2024
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hidesuke Taneishi M 1986 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Hiroki Yamamoto M 1986 Japan Climber Kanagawa, Japan - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PHOL24301 - - https://explorersweb.com/light-japanese-teams-succeed-on-two-little-known-6000ers-in-nepal/ - - -