Phungi Himal | 2017 SE Face (up), W Ridge (down)

A Russia expedition to Phungi Himal in 2017 via SE Face (up), W Ridge (down), led by Yuri Koshelenko. Summit reached on 28th October 2017. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9749
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID PHNH17301
Peak ID PHNH
Year 2017
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face (up), W Ridge (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Yuri Koshelenko
Sponsor Seven Summits Club Phungi Expedition 2017
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Besisahar->Dharapani->BC
Basecamp Date 2017-10-15
Summit Date 2017-10-28
Summit Time 1630
Summit Days 13
Total Days 17
Termination Date 2017-11-01
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6538
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/10,3600m),ABC(18/10,5000m),C1(26/10,5700m),C2(27/10,6300m),Smt(28/10),C3(28/10,6500m),C4(29/10,6100m)
Route Notes BC 15/10 3600m near Dana Khola and some houses for yak men ABC 18/10 5000m located on glacier moraine C1 26/10 5700m at safe location from rockfall on the snow C2 27/10 6300m a bit to the right of route Smt 28/10 by Lonchinskiy, Koshelenko at 4:30 pm. C3 28/10 6500m (after summit) on summit ridge C4 29/10 6100m (in descent) in icefall under a big boulder Ascent in alpine style, no Sherpa support. Traversed Phungi Himal, ascent on SE Face, descent via West Ridge. Long day of climbing from C1 to C2 (20 pitches, difficult ice, 60-80 degrees). Weather turned on 27 Oct, quite foggy, a lot of snow, cold. Thunderbolts and electricity in the air. On summit day they started from C2 at 8 am. Some pieces of ice fell on Lonchinskiy between C2 and summit, damaging his helmet. Big cornices on summit ridge. They prepared their bivouac on summit ridge before going to highest point. Reached summit at 4:30 pm. Stayed on top for 15 minutes, weather was bad, foggy and windy. Then went to bivouac nearby. Next day traversed summit and descended on West Ridge. 29 Oct they slept in bivouac in icefall under a big boulder, safe location, at approximately 6100m. Reached bivouac place at 2 pm. Bad weather forced them to stop climbing. On 30 Oct went down to ABC, same as on ascent. On 31 Oct to BC. Team left BC on 1 Nov. Climbing route: ascent via SE Face, descent via West Ridge. Oxygen: Not taken not used.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency 7 Summits Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463717
Year 2017
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face (up), w ridge (down)

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yuri Koshelenko M 1963 Russia Leader Rostov-on-Don, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Aleksei Lonchinskiy M 1982 Russia Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
PHNH17301 HCN Planet Mountain - - 37:40-41 (Feb 2018) -
PHNH17301 - - http://www.planetmountain.com/en/photos/phungi-peak-big-himalayan-first-ascent-by-koshelenko-and-lonchinskii/49199?s=4 - - -
PHNH17301 - - http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/phungi-peak-big-himalayan-first-ascent-by-koshelenko-and-lonchinskii.html - - -
PHNH17301 AAJ Koshelenko, Yuri Phungi Himal, F1rst Ascent of the Southeast Face - 92:319-320 (2018) -
PHNH17301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214592/Phungi-Himal-First-Ascent-by-Southeast-Face - - -